Universal Mexican culinary tradition — lard was the historical fat; vegetable shortening is the modern substitute
The political and flavour divide between lard and vegetable shortening in Mexican cooking reflects the 20th century industrialisation of the food supply. Lard (rendered pork fat) was the universal cooking fat in Mexico until hydrogenated vegetable shortening (Inca, Manteca Vegetal) became cheap and widely available in the 1950s–70s. In traditional and contemporary quality cooking, rendered lard is considered essential for tamales, carnitas, tortillas, refried beans, and mole frying. The flavour difference is significant and widely understood.
Lard: rich, neutral pork fat — subtle savoriness that enhances everything it cooks in; vegetable shortening: neutral but without the flavour contribution
{"Lard from leaf fat (manteca de puerco — kidney fat) is the most neutral and highest quality — not commercial lard","Render lard slowly at low heat — high heat produces off flavours from scorching","For tamales: lard contributes fluffiness and richness — vegetable shortening produces denser, less flavourful masa","For refried beans: lard provides the characteristic savouriness that vegetable shortening cannot replicate","Rendered lard keeps refrigerated for 3–6 months — it is practical and economical to make at home"}
{"Source leaf lard from a butcher — render at 120°C for 2 hours, strain through cloth into jars","Rendered lard has a light, clean pork aroma — commercial lard smells stronger due to preservation processes","For carnitas: lard is not just a fat — it is the braising medium; the pork cooking in its own fat is the technique","A small amount of lard (1–2 tablespoons) in a vegetable shortening-based tamale masa significantly improves the result"}
{"Using packaged supermarket lard (often partially hydrogenated) — barely better than vegetable shortening","Substituting butter in Mexican preparations — butter's water content and flavour are wrong for most applications","Using olive oil in refried beans — incorrect flavour profile for Mexican tradition","Assuming vegetable shortening is equivalent to lard — they produce noticeably different results"}
The Art of Mexican Cooking — Diana Kennedy (advocates strongly for lard); Fat — Jennifer McLagan