Castelluccio di Norcia, Umbria
The tiny, paper-skinned lentils of the Piano Grande di Castelluccio (1452m) in the Sibillini mountains — the only lentil to hold IGP status in Italy. Grown without irrigation on high-altitude volcanic-glacial soil, they are characterised by extreme thinness of skin (no soaking required, 20-25 minute cooking) and an intense, nutty, mineral flavour with none of the flatness of lowland lentils. Prepared simply: soffrito of onion, celery, and carrot, lentils in cold water, a sprig of sage, olive oil at the end.
Nutty, mineral, earthy with a clean, grassy finish — more flavourful than any lowland lentil, best appreciated simply with olive oil and aromatic herbs
No soaking — the ultra-thin skin means these lentils absorb water quickly during cooking. They must be started in cold water and brought to the simmer gradually to prevent the skins from bursting before the interior cooks. The sage must be added early and removed before serving — it leaves a bitter note if left in. Extra-virgin olive oil added cold at service, not during cooking, to preserve its flavour.
The classic service is with Norcia sausage or cotechino nestled into the lentils — the fat from the sausage provides the only richness the dish needs. For a vegetarian version, finish with a generous pour of Umbrian DOP olive oil and shaved Pecorino di Norcia. The lentils hold their shape when cooled and make an excellent room-temperature salad with raw onion, parsley, and wine vinegar.
Soaking overnight as you would standard lentils makes them disintegrate before they're cooked. Covering while cooking concentrates the foam — leave uncovered and skim. Adding salt before cooking toughens the skin. Cooking too aggressively splits the skins and produces mush rather than the whole, tender lentils the dish requires.
La Cucina dell'Umbria — Accademia Italiana della Cucina