Piano Grande di Castelluccio, Norcia, Umbria. The lentils of the Piano Grande are grown at 1,500m on a high plateau surrounded by the Monti Sibillini — the elevation, volcanic soil, and extreme climate (harsh winters, hot summers, low rainfall) produce lentils of exceptional density and flavour. IGP status granted in 1997.
Lenticchie di Castelluccio are the extraordinary small lentils grown on the high Piano Grande plateau (1,500m) near Norcia — harvested once a year in summer, they are among the finest lentils in the world, requiring no soaking before cooking and retaining their shape after 20-25 minutes of gentle simmering. Their flavour — distinctly earthy, slightly sweet, and faintly mineral from the thin volcanic soil of the plateau — is unlike commercial lentils. They are the centrepiece of the Umbrian New Year dish (lenticchie con cotechino), but are also eaten as a side dish (zuppa di lenticchie) dressed only with raw olive oil, or as an antipasto dressed with vinegar and onion.
A properly cooked Castelluccio lentil is small, firm, and intact — its skin holds the earthy interior without bursting. Dressed with raw Umbrian olive oil, it tastes intensely of the earth — minerally, faintly sweet, and deeply satisfying. With cotechino, the rich gelatinous pork and the clean legume are one of the most complete flavour pairings in Italian cooking.
No soaking required — the small size and fresh harvest of Castelluccio lentils means they hydrate and cook in 20-25 minutes from dry. Rinse, then cover with cold water (2:1 water to lentils). Do not salt during cooking — the skin toughens. Bring to a simmer and cook gently until tender but holding their shape. Season aggressively with salt only when done. The classic preparation: dress hot with the best available extra-virgin olive oil (Umbrian is traditional — DOP Umbria), fresh ground pepper, and optionally red wine vinegar. For the New Year preparation: serve alongside the poached cotechino (Zampone or cotechino di Norcia).
Castelluccio lentils are sold by the harvest year — the current harvest (anno corrente) is always the best. Add a bay leaf and a halved shallot to the cooking water for background depth without obscuring the lentil's natural flavour. The olive oil finish is not optional — Umbrian extra-virgin olive oil has the grassy, slightly bitter character that complements the earthy lentil perfectly. Any olive oil that is sweet or bland will not serve this dish.
Salting the cooking water — Castelluccio lentils' skins harden with salt; wait until fully cooked. Overcooking — these lentils go from perfectly cooked to collapsing in 3-4 minutes; begin tasting at 18 minutes. Substituting commercial lentils — the flavour is entirely different; if Castelluccio are unavailable, Puy lentils (France) are the closest in size and character. Using old stock — Castelluccio lentils older than 1 year cook less evenly and lose their characteristic sweetness.
Slow Food Editore, Umbria in Cucina; Giorgio Locatelli, Made in Italy