Fermo and Macerata provinces, Marche — the lonza di fico is specific to the central Marche hills where fig cultivation and walnut orchards are traditional. The Christmas confection tradition in the Marche is closely related to the broader central Italian Christmas sweet tradition (including similar preparations in Umbria and Abruzzo).
Lonza di fico is the Marchigiani confection made to resemble a pork lonza (cured loin) — compressed dried figs mixed with walnuts, almonds, orange peel, and anise seeds, shaped into a cylinder, wrapped in fig leaves, and tied to produce something that, when sliced, resembles a cross-section of cured meat but reveals the dark, sweet, nutty interior. It is the traditional Christmas confection of the Fermo and Macerata provinces — made in November when the autumn figs are dried and the walnuts are fresh, stored through Advent, and served sliced at Christmas with aged Pecorino or Verdicchio passito. The name is a playful reference: fico (fig) lonza pretending to be pork lonza.
Lonza di fico sliced crosswise reveals the deep-brown, dense interior — the figs, walnuts, and orange peel clearly distinct in the compressed mass. The flavour is intensely sweet from the dried figs, with the nutty walnuts providing bitterness and texture; the orange peel adds brightness; the anise seeds a warm, liquorice note throughout. With aged Pecorino, the sweet-savoury contrast is one of the most satisfying of the Marchigiani table.
Use fully dried black figs (Dottato variety ideally — small, sweet, honey-like). Chop figs coarsely. Mix with roughly chopped walnuts, toasted almonds (whole or roughly chopped), candied orange peel (or fresh orange zest), anise seeds, and a splash of sapa (grape must syrup) or vino cotto. The mixture should be moist enough to press together but not sticky. Shape by hand into a cylinder (10-12cm long, 4-5cm diameter). Wrap in dried fig leaves (soaked briefly to make them flexible) or parchment. Tie at 2cm intervals. Press firmly. Refrigerate 24 hours before slicing. Slice 1cm thick.
Sapa (grape must reduced to a thick syrup — available from Marchigiani and Emilian producers) is the traditional binding liquid; Vincotto (Puglia) or grape molasses is an acceptable substitute. The fig leaf wrapping is aesthetic and adds a faint herbal note; parchment paper works if fig leaves are unavailable. Served alongside a glass of Verdicchio passito and a wedge of aged Pecorino Maceratese, it is the Christmas table of the Marche hills.
Figs too dry — if the figs are very dry, add a spoonful of sapa or vino cotto to moisten; the mixture must press together without crumbling. Walnuts not fresh — rancid walnuts ruin the lonza; use fresh-season walnuts (September-October harvest). Shaping too loosely — the lonza must be firmly pressed to hold its shape when sliced.
Carol Field, The Italian Baker; Slow Food Editore, Marche in Cucina