Lazio
The Roman 'fake sauce' (sugo finto) — a meatless tomato sauce made with a very slow-cooked soffritto of onion, carrot, celery and herbs in olive oil, to which San Marzano tomatoes are added and cooked until concentrated. Called 'finto' (fake) because it looks and tastes like a meat ragù but contains none — it was the Friday sauce of Roman Catholic Rome, eaten during Lenten abstinence from meat.
Deep, sweet and herbal; the long-cooked soffritto gives an almost meaty sweetness; sage and rosemary give a Sunday ragù impression; the thick tomato sauce coats every piece of pasta — Friday food that tastes like Sunday
{"Cook the soffritto for a full 30 minutes over very low heat — the vegetables must caramelise and almost dissolve to create the sauce's body and sweet depth","Use whole San Marzano or plum tomatoes crushed by hand — the irregular texture gives a more interesting sauce than puréed tomato","Season aggressively with rosemary and sage — these two herbs together with onion create the 'meaty' flavour suggestion that earns the sauce its name","Cook the sauce 45–60 minutes uncovered to concentrate — sugo finto should coat the back of a spoon; thin sauce is incorrect","Finish with a generous pour of high-quality olive oil off heat — the fat in a meatless sauce is the primary carrier of flavour"}
{"A few dried porcini mushrooms soaked and added with their strained liquid gives an umami depth that reinforces the 'meaty' illusion","This sauce improves dramatically when made the day before — the flavours integrate and the texture thickens overnight","Serve with rigatoni or spaghetti — both Roman; the rigatoni's tubes trap the sauce more effectively"}
{"Short soffritto cook — the vegetables must essentially dissolve; 10-minute soffritto produces an entirely different sauce","Pureed tomatoes — the hand-crushed irregular pieces give texture that mimics chunky meat sauce","Insufficient reduction — the sauce must be thick and coating; thin sugo finto tastes watery and flat"}
La Cucina Romana — Ricette della Tradizione Popolare