Abruzzo, with chitarra pasta documented from at least the 19th century. The chitarra (also called maccharunare in dialect) is the defining pasta tool of Teramo province in particular, though used throughout the region.
The chitarra is a wooden frame strung with steel wires — like a guitar — used to cut fresh egg pasta. A sheet of pasta is rolled to the thickness of the wire spacing (about 2-3mm), draped over the strings, and pressed through with a rolling pin until the wires cut the pasta into square-section spaghetti-like strands. The chitarra is the defining pasta tool of Abruzzo and produces a pasta unlike any other: square in cross-section (not round), with a rough surface that grips sauce tenaciously, and a springy, chewy texture from the cutting action.
The square cross-section and rough surface grips sauce in all four channels — per unit length, a chitarra strand carries more sauce than round pasta of equivalent diameter. Combined with lamb ragù's fat and depth, the pasta becomes more than a vehicle: it is an integral part of the sauce architecture.
The pasta sheet must be precisely the same thickness as the wire spacing — too thick and the wires compress rather than cut; too thin and the pasta tears rather than cuts cleanly. Abruzzo egg pasta is typically 3 eggs per 300g 00 flour — slightly stiffer than some regional doughs. Roll to a uniform sheet the width of the chitarra frame. Lay on the strings and roll the pin firmly across once — the pasta should fall through cleanly. Gather and separate immediately on a floured board. The classic sauce is a lamb ragù (alla molisana: lamb with tomato, peperoncino, and saffron), or simply with aglio, olio, and guanciale.
A chitarra can be improvised by stringing a wooden frame with piano wire of equal gauge, but quality handcrafted chitarre are available from Abruzzese artisan producers — the wire tension and spacing is precisely calibrated. After cutting, hold the strands loosely in a nest and dust with fine semolina to prevent sticking. Fresh chitarra cooks in 2-3 minutes in very well-salted boiling water.
Pasta sheet uneven thickness — the cut strands will vary and cook unevenly. Not enough dusting flour — the strands stick together when they fall through. Rolling with insufficient pressure — the pasta is pressed, not cut. Dough too wet — it gums on the wires instead of cutting cleanly.
Oretta Zanini de Vita, Encyclopedia of Pasta; Slow Food Editore, Abruzzo in Cucina