Umbria — Norcia e Valnerina
Umbria's emmer-wheat irregular pasta with wild boar ragù — maltagliati ('badly cut', irregular diamond-shaped pasta) made with a blend of farro di Norcia (emmer wheat) and 00 flour, dressed with a long-cooked wild boar ragù in red wine. The maltagliati's irregular shapes and rough emmer flour surface are specifically designed to hold chunky, rustic sauces that would slide off smooth pasta. The wild boar of the Umbrian hills is leaner and more gamey than farmed pork.
Nutty emmer pasta, wild-gamey boar depth, Sagrantino tannin, Umbrian truffle earthiness — robust, ancient, the taste of the Umbrian forest floor
{"Farro blend: 40% emmer wheat flour (farro di Norcia), 60% 00 flour — pure emmer pasta is too fragile and dense; the blend provides flavour from the emmer and workability from the 00","Maltagliati cutting: roll dough to 3mm thickness, cut irregular diamonds with a pastry wheel or knife in a random motion — uniformity is the mistake; the irregular shapes are correct","Wild boar marinade: 24 hours in Sagrantino di Montefalco wine with aromatics before braising — reduces the wild character without eliminating it","Ragù cooking: minimum 3 hours — boar muscle is tighter than pork; the collagen needs time to dissolve","Finish in the ragù: final 2 minutes of pasta cooking happen in the sauce pan — the emmer pasta absorbs the braising liquid and becomes the vehicle for the sauce"}
{"Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG is both the marinade wine and the glass to serve alongside — Umbria's most tannic grape is calibrated for wild boar","Add 2 tablespoons of dried Norcia black truffle shavings to the ragù in the final 10 minutes — the Umbrian truffle-boar combination is one of the great regional pairings","The boar marinade vegetables (onion, carrot, celery, garlic) can be blended into the ragù for a richer sauce body","Aged Pecorino di Norcia grated at service — sharper than Parmigiano, it resonates with the gamey boar"}
{"Pure emmer pasta — too dense and fragile; the blend is necessary","Short-marinating or short-cooking the boar — the raw game character overwhelms the dish","Uniform pasta cuts — destroys the rustic character that defines maltagliati","Draining pasta completely dry — the pasta water is needed for the sauce to coat properly"}
La Cucina Umbra — Tradizione e Cucina Popolare (Edizioni dell'Umbria)