Mantou (馒头) are plain, unfilled steamed buns — the staple bread of northern China where wheat is the primary grain, just as rice is the primary grain of southern China. A good mantou should be snow-white, slightly sweet, very soft and fluffy inside from the yeast leavening, with a surface that is smooth and even without cracks. Mantou are eaten with every meal in northern China in place of rice — served with stir-fried vegetables, braised meats, or dipped into congee. They are also used as a vehicle for Peking duck sauce and slices of duck, as a sandwich bread.
The dough: 500g plain flour (low-protein or all-purpose), 7g instant yeast, 20g sugar, 1 tsp baking powder (baking powder is used in combination with yeast for extra lift and softness — a distinctly Chinese baking technique), 260-270ml warm milk or water. Knead 15 minutes until very smooth. Rest 1 hour until doubled. The shaping: Two methods: (1) Spiral roll: Roll the dough into a thin rectangle, roll up tightly like a Swiss roll, and cut into individual pieces 4-5cm wide. (2) Cut from a round log: Roll into a cylinder of even diameter, cut into equal discs. Each disc becomes a mantou. The second rise: Essential — 15-20 minutes after shaping before steaming. The mantou should puff slightly and feel lighter before entering the steamer. Steaming: Cold water start — place the mantou in the steamer before the water is boiling, then turn on the heat. This gradual heat rise gives the yeast a few more minutes to expand before the heat kills it, producing a lighter result. Steam 15-20 minutes.
Adding too much water: A wet dough produces a flat mantou that spreads rather than rises. The dough should be smooth, non-tacky. Starting with boiling water in the steamer: The sudden heat shock can cause the mantou to collapse before the yeast has fully expanded.
Fuchsia Dunlop, Every Grain of Rice (2012); Ken Hom, Complete Chinese Cookbook (2011)