Mao shi hong shao rou (毛氏红烧肉, Mao family red-braised pork) is the Hunan version of red-braised pork belly attributed to the culinary preferences of Mao Zedong — who reportedly ate this dish frequently throughout his life and considered it brain food (the high fat content, he claimed, supported cognitive function). The Hunan version of hong shao rou differs from the Jiangnan Dongpo rou preparation in being somewhat less sweet, cooked at higher heat with more direct caramelization rather than slow-sealed braising, and accompanied by the characteristic Hunan flavour additions of dried chillis and more aggressive seasoning.
The technique: Blanch 500g pork belly (cut into 4cm chunks, skin-on) in boiling water 5 minutes. Drain and rinse. Caramelise the sugar: Heat 2 tbsp neutral oil in a heavy pot. Add 2 tbsp rock sugar. Stir over medium heat until the sugar melts and turns to a dark amber caramel — approximately 5 minutes. The caramel should be just shy of bitter. Add the pork: The pork chunks should hiss and bubble vigorously as they hit the caramel. Toss to coat in the caramel. Add the braising liquid: 3 tbsp Shaoxing wine, 2 tbsp dark soy sauce, 1 tbsp light soy sauce, 3-4 dried red chillis, 3 slices ginger, 2 star anise, 1 cinnamon stick. Add enough water to just cover the pork. Braise: Bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer. Cover and braise 1 hour. Uncover. Increase heat to medium. Continue cooking 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce reduces to a thick, glossy coat on the pork chunks.
Not taking the caramel dark enough: A pale caramel produces a sweet rather than complex-bittersweet flavour. The caramel should be distinctly dark amber — one step before burnt.
Fuchsia Dunlop, Every Grain of Rice (2012); Fuchsia Dunlop, Invitation to a Banquet (2023)