Chengdu, Sichuan — created in the 19th century; now one of the most globally recognized Chinese dishes
Ma po dou fu: soft tofu cubes in a fiery sauce of doubanjiang, black bean paste, ground beef/pork, Sichuan pepper, and chili oil. Named after an old pockmarked (ma) woman (po) who allegedly invented it. Technique secrets: the tofu must be blanched in salted water first; the sauce must be built in sequence; the dish must be served trembling-hot.
Fiery, numbing, deeply savoury, with rich bean paste and the trembling softness of just-cooked tofu
{"Blanch silken tofu in salted water before cooking — firms it slightly and seasons it","Build the sauce in stages: oil → doubanjiang → black bean → aromatics → stock → tofu","Never stir mapo tofu — swirl the wok or gently fold","Final Sichuan pepper must be freshly ground and added right before serving"}
{"Restaurant technique: add a small amount of lard for richness at the finish","Authentic version uses ground beef (not just pork) for a grainier texture","The sauce should coat each piece of tofu but not pool excessively"}
{"Stirring tofu — causes it to break apart","Skipping tofu blanching step — raw tofu dilutes the sauce","Adding ground Sichuan pepper too early — heat destroys the numbing compounds"}
The Food of Sichuan — Fuchsia Dunlop