Matelote — Red Wine Fish Stew of the Loire and Alsace

Matelote is a French freshwater fish stew braised in red wine (or white, in Alsace) with mushrooms, pearl onions, and lardons — the fish equivalent of boeuf bourguignon. The dish belongs to the river-kitchen traditions of the Loire, Burgundy, and Alsace, where eel, pike, carp, and perch were the daily catch. The Loire matelote uses red wine; the Alsatian variant (matelote au Riesling) substitutes white. For a classic matelote: cut 1.2kg mixed freshwater fish (eel in 4cm sections is essential — its gelatin thickens the sauce; pike, perch, and carp in large chunks) into serving pieces. Brown pearl onions (20 pieces) and lardons (100g) in butter, reserve. In the same pan, sear the fish pieces briefly on high heat (2 minutes per side — the Maillard reaction on the surface adds depth). Flambée with 60ml Cognac. Add a full bottle (750ml) of red Burgundy or Pinot Noir, 200ml fish fumet, a bouquet garni, and a clove-studded onion. Bring to a simmer (never boil), cover, and cook 15-20 minutes until the fish is just cooked through. Remove the fish. Reduce the wine sauce by half. Thicken with beurre manié (30g each butter and flour, kneaded together), whisked in piece by piece until the sauce coats a spoon. Return the fish, pearl onions, lardons, and 200g sautéed button mushrooms. Garnish with heart-shaped croûtons fried in clarified butter and scatter with parsley. The sauce should be deep garnet, glossy, and winy without being harsh — the fumet and fish gelatin from the eel soften the wine's tannins.

• Italian brodetto (Adriatic fish stew)
• Portuguese caldeirada
• Belgian waterzooi