Toledo, Castilla-La Mancha, Spain
Toledo's marzipan — one of the great Iberian confections, made from equal parts almonds and sugar, worked into a pliable paste and shaped into figurines, fruits, and flat rounds that are then lightly toasted in the oven. The marzipan of Toledo (marcepán in some historical sources) has PGI status and differs from German or Italian marzipan in its higher almond ratio and the minimal processing — the paste is not too smooth, retaining a slightly grainy texture. The origin is contested between Arab (mawthaban — the seated king, from which the shape of the original pieces was supposedly derived) and Greek or earlier traditions, but the Toledo confectioners' tradition is documented from at least the 15th century.
Equal weights of blanched peeled almonds and sugar (1:1 ratio) — the Toledo standard. Grind the almonds while still slightly moist from blanching. Combine with sugar syrup (at thread stage, not ball stage) and work until the paste is pliable and does not stick. Rest covered for 24 hours before shaping — the paste firms and becomes easier to work. Toast the shaped pieces at 180°C for 8-10 minutes until lightly golden.
The addition of egg white to bind the marzipan is used in some Catalan and Portuguese traditions — it produces a slightly lighter, more pipe-able paste. In Toledo, the finest marzipan shops (Casa Telesforo Casado, Santo Tomé) have been making it to the same recipe for over a century. Pair with sweet Moscatel de Setúbal or a glass of amontillado sherry.
Using pre-ground almond flour — produces too-smooth a texture. Over-working the paste until it becomes oily — the almond oils begin to express. Baking too long — the surface should be lightly golden, not deeply browned. Using glucose instead of sucrose — the texture and flavour differ significantly.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden