Mel i mató: Catalan fresh cheese with honey

Catalonia, Spain

The simplest and possibly most perfect Catalan dessert — fresh unsalted curd cheese (mató) drizzled with dark wildflower honey. Nothing else. Mató is made from either cow's or goat's milk, heated, curdled with rennet or lemon, and drained — producing a white, soft, grainy curd with mild acidity and clean dairy flavour. The honey should be dark and assertive: rosemary, thyme, or eucalyptus from the Catalan interior. This is the dessert that follows escudella at the Christmas table, and also the everyday dessert of Catalonia. Its power is in the contrast: the neutral dairy against the floral bitterness of the honey.