Oaxaca, southern Mexico — a daily staple of Oaxacan markets and home breakfasts
Memelas are thick, oval masa cakes that serve as one of Oaxaca's foundational antojitos — street food bites built directly from masa, the nixtamalised corn dough that underpins much of Mexican cooking. Unlike a tortilla, which is pressed thin and cooked quickly, the memela is formed thick, embedded with beans, and cooked slowly until its exterior develops a golden, slightly crisp crust while the interior remains dense and yielding. The masa for memelas should be fresh and slightly firmer than tortilla masa — too wet and the cakes will spread; too dry and they will crack. Seasoning the masa itself with salt and a small amount of lard is essential: the fat coats the starch granules, improving texture and contributing flavour. Some cooks add a small amount of dried oregano or crumbled dried chilli directly into the masa. A portion of masa (roughly the size of a large egg) is shaped by hand into an oval approximately two centimetres thick. A well is pressed into the surface, filled with refried black beans, and sealed by folding the edges over. The memela is then flattened gently — not as thin as a tortilla, but enough that the bean filling becomes visible as a shadow through the dough. Cooking is done on a dry comal over medium heat. The memela goes on without oil and is cooked for four to five minutes per side until golden, with slight char marks where the corn has caramelised against the hot stone or metal. It should be moved occasionally to prevent burning. Topped with crumbled queso fresco, salsa verde, and a drizzle of crema, the memela is served warm from the comal and eaten immediately. The combination of seasoned corn, earthy beans, and fresh toppings is complete and satisfying without complexity.
Earthy, savoury, and deeply satisfying — mineral corn, creamy black beans, and a dry crust that cracks slightly under light pressure
Season the masa with salt and lard before shaping — fat in the dough is essential for texture and flavour Shape to a consistent two-centimetre thickness so the memela cooks through without burning the exterior Seal the bean filling completely to prevent it escaping during cooking Cook on a dry comal — no oil — allowing the masa to develop its characteristic dry crust Serve immediately from the comal; memelas deteriorate rapidly as they cool
Fresh masa from a tortillería produces a noticeably better memela than reconstituted masa harina A pinch of ash (from the nixtamalisation process) added to the masa deepens the corn flavour For a regional variant, add epazote leaves to the black bean filling Rest shaped memelas on a tray dusted with masa harina to prevent sticking before cooking A well-seasoned cast-iron comal conducts heat more evenly than a thin steel pan
Using instant masa harina without additional lard, producing a dry, crumbly cake Over-thinning the memela, which causes the beans to burn through the surface Using wet whole beans rather than refried paste, which creates steam pockets and splits the masa Cooking over high heat, which chars the outside before the interior is cooked through Adding toppings too early, which creates steam and softens the carefully developed crust