Merda de Can—whose colourful Niçois name translates with disarming frankness as ‘dog droppings’—is Nice’s unique gnocchi, made from Swiss chard, flour, and olive oil, rolled into short, irregularly-shaped pieces that bear an admittedly apt resemblance to their namesake. Despite the unfortunate name, this is a deeply satisfying dish that showcases the Niçois talent for transforming humble vegetables into substantial main courses. The preparation begins with 500g Swiss chard leaves (stems reserved for another use), blanched for 2 minutes, squeezed completely dry in a towel, and finely chopped. The chard is mixed with 200g flour, 2 beaten eggs, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, 50g grated Parmesan, a pinch of nutmeg, salt, and pepper to form a soft, slightly sticky dough. Unlike potato gnocchi, no potato or ricotta lightens the mixture—the texture is denser and more rustic, with the chard providing both flavour and structure. Small pieces of dough are rolled between the palms into irregular cylinders about 5cm long and 1.5cm thick, with tapered ends. They are poached in salted boiling water for 3-4 minutes (they float when done), drained, then traditionally sautéed in olive oil with garlic and served with either a Provençal tomato sauce or simply with sage-infused olive oil and more Parmesan. The gnocchi’s slightly firm, chewy texture is intentional—these are not the pillowy clouds of Italian tradition but a more robust, peasant preparation where the chard’s mineral, vegetal flavour is the dominant note. In Nice, Merda de Can appears on the menus of traditional restaurants during cooler months when Swiss chard is at its best.
Squeeze the blanched chard bone-dry—residual moisture creates a loose dough that won’t hold its shape. Use only chard leaves, not stems, for the dough. Shape into intentionally irregular, rustic pieces—uniformity is neither expected nor desired. Poach first, then sauté in olive oil for flavour and colour. Serve with tomato sauce or sage butter, always with Parmesan.
Dry the blanched chard in a clean tea towel by wringing as tightly as possible, then spread on a baking tray and dry further in a 100°C oven for 5 minutes—the extra step ensures perfect dough consistency. Roll the gnocchi on a fork’s tines to create ridges that catch sauce. For an elegant presentation, sauté the poached gnocchi in browned butter with sage leaves and toasted pine nuts, then finish with shaved Parmesan—it transforms this rustic dish into something almost refined.
Not drying the chard sufficiently, producing a wet dough that is impossible to shape. Adding too much flour to compensate for wet chard, creating heavy, leaden gnocchi. Making them too large—they should be modest in size, about 5cm. Boiling too vigorously, which breaks the delicate gnocchi apart. Serving without the final sauté in olive oil, which adds essential flavour and colour.
La Cuisine Niçoise — Jacques Médecin