Sicily — Palermo
Sicily's summer soup — the tender leaves and shoots (tenerumi) of long Sicilian zucchine serpente (snake zucchini), cooked in water with olive oil, garlic, and fresh tomato until the leaves dissolve into a light, verdant broth, with short broken pasta added and cooked in the soup. The tenerumi are the climbing vine's most delicate part — they are available only in summer when the zucchine serpente climbs the pergolas across Palermo. Outside of season, no substitute exists.
Delicate leafy-vegetal tenerumi broth, olive oil richness, summer tomato sweetness, pasta body — light, verdant, quintessentially Palermitano summer eating
{"Tenerumi must be washed meticulously — the leaves trap soil and insects; soak in cold water for 20 minutes then rinse","Remove only the most tender growth (top 15cm of vine with small leaves and tendrils) — mature leaves are too tough and bitter","Cook in water only (no stock) — the tenerumi contain enough flavour compounds to produce a broth; stock would overwhelm the delicate leaf flavour","Pasta spezzata: break spaghetti or vermicelli into 3cm pieces by hand before adding — the irregular lengths produce a more rustic texture","Final seasoning: raw extra-virgin olive oil in bowls and Sicilian sea salt — no cheese"}
{"A half-dozen Palermo cherry tomatoes (pomodorini di Pachino) added whole provide sweetness without disrupting the leafy character","The soup should be served at room temperature in summer — a warm bowl on a hot day in Palermo is a contradiction in terms","A few fresh basil leaves torn at service — classically Palermitano","Serve as a first course before a cold antipasto; tenerumi soup is a light, cleansing preparation not a main course"}
{"Stock instead of water — kills the light, mineral tenerumi character","Whole pasta strands — not traditional; the spezzata (broken) format is characteristic","Cooking mature tenerumi — only the fresh, young growth is tender enough","Parmesan at service — traditionally absent; the fresh herb and olive oil combination is complete without cheese"}
La Cucina Palermitana — Enza Ficarra (Sellerio Editore)