Mirliton (*MEL-ih-tawn*) — known elsewhere as chayote, christophene, cho-cho, or vegetable pear — is a mild, pale green squash that grows on vigorous vines in the yards and fences of New Orleans. The plant is so prolific that a single vine can produce dozens of fruit, and the tradition of sharing mirlitons with neighbours is a New Orleans domestic ritual. The vegetable arrived in Louisiana through the Caribbean (probably via the French West Indies) and is ultimately of Mesoamerican origin — the Aztecs cultivated it. In New Orleans, mirliton is almost always stuffed — halved, seeded, scooped, and filled with a shrimp-and-breadcrumb mixture — and baked. The stuffed mirliton is the Creole home cook's autumn dish, appearing on tables from September through November when the vines are producing.
Mirliton halved lengthwise, the seed removed, the flesh parboiled or steamed until tender, then scooped out and combined with sautéed shrimp, the trinity, breadcrumbs, and Cajun seasoning. The mixture is mounded back into the mirliton shells and baked until the breadcrumb topping is golden and the filling is hot throughout. The mirliton itself has a very mild flavour — somewhere between zucchini and a watery pear — and acts primarily as a vessel and textural contributor. The shrimp and seasoning provide the flavour; the mirliton provides the form.
Stuffed mirliton is a side dish or a light main course. It pairs with anything that wants a mild, creamy accompaniment: roast chicken, grilled fish, pork chops. The mild mirliton and the seasoned shrimp filling don't compete with a main course — they complement it. Hot sauce on the table.
1) The mirliton must be cooked before stuffing — raw mirliton is too firm and will not yield to a fork after baking. Parboil halved mirlitons for 15-20 minutes until a knife slides in easily, then scoop out the flesh, leaving a thin shell intact. 2) Shrimp is the classic filling protein. The shrimp are sautéed with the trinity and garlic, chopped coarsely, then combined with the scooped mirliton flesh and breadcrumbs. The ratio should lean toward shrimp and mirliton flesh with just enough breadcrumb to bind. 3) Breadcrumbs serve two roles: mixed into the filling as a binder, and sprinkled on top before baking to create a golden crust. French bread breadcrumbs (dried and crumbled) are the standard. 4) Bake at 175°C until the topping is golden and the filling is bubbling — 25-30 minutes. The shells should hold their shape on the plate.
Crabmeat mirliton — substitute jumbo lump crab for shrimp. The delicacy of the crab against the mild mirliton is the Creole luxury version. Ham mirliton — diced ham instead of shrimp, with a small amount of Creole mustard stirred into the filling. The less expensive version that many Creole families make every week during mirliton season. The mirliton vine is a New Orleans domestic tradition — grown over fences, arbors, and carport structures. After Hurricane Katrina, the loss of mirliton vines (salt water intrusion killed them) was mourned alongside the loss of houses. Poppy Tooker's "Slow Food New Orleans" worked to re-establish mirliton vines throughout the city. The vine's survival became a symbol of the city's.
Undercooking the mirliton before stuffing — the shell should be tender enough to eat with a fork after baking. A firm, undercooked shell makes the dish frustrating. Over-scooping the shell — leave enough flesh to maintain the structural integrity of the shell. Too thin and it collapses; too thick and the filling volume is small. Using too much breadcrumb — the filling becomes dressing rather than a shrimp mixture held in a vegetable vessel.
John Folse — Encyclopedia of Cajun & Creole Cuisine; Poppy Tooker — Louisiana Eats!; Sara Roahen — Gumbo Tales