Burgos, Castilla y León, Spain
The definitive Spanish blood sausage — made from pork blood, onions, rice, pork fat, salt, and pimentón, stuffed into natural casings and cooked in boiling water. The rice distinguishes Burgos morcilla from the bread-based morcillas of Extremadura and the potato-based versions of the Canary Islands. It is rich, slightly sweet from the onion and blood, and marked by pimentón — always sweet pimentón in the Burgos version. Morcilla de Burgos is used three ways: sliced and fried or grilled as a tapa; incorporated into cocido and fabada to enrich the broth; and used as the defining flavour component of callos a la madrileña where it partially dissolves into the sauce.
The rice must be par-cooked before mixing with the blood — raw rice in the mixture doesn't cook through during poaching. The blood is mixed with the cooked onion, rice, fat, salt, and pimentón while still warm. Stuff into casings loosely — the rice swells during cooking. Poach in simmering (not boiling) water for 20-25 minutes. The casing should not burst — test by pressing: it should feel set but give.
For service, slice the poached morcilla and fry in a dry pan or grill until the casing begins to crisp and the interior is warm through — 3-4 minutes per side. The fried morcilla should be served immediately. When used in cooking (fabada, callos), add the morcilla whole in the last 30-45 minutes and allow it to gently dissolve into the stew. Pair with Ribera del Duero or young Tempranillo.
Using raw rice — doesn't cook through in the brief poaching. Boiling rather than simmering — the casing bursts. Over-stuffing — the rice swells. Discarding the cooking water — use it as a base for soups or caldo.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden