Moules-Frites

Moules-frites is the national dish of both Belgium and the French Nord — a steaming pot of mussels cooked in white wine, shallots, and parsley, served with a mountain of twice-fried frites. In the Nord-Pas-de-Calais, it is not merely a dish but a cultural institution: the Saturday-night moules-frites is as fixed in the northern French calendar as Sunday mass once was. The technique for the mussels: scrub and debeard 2kg fresh mussels (bouchot mussels from the Côte d'Opale are ideal). In a large, lidded pot, sweat 4 finely diced shallots in 50g butter, add 300ml dry white wine (or, in the Flemish tradition, a blonde beer), bring to a vigorous boil, add the mussels, cover, and shake the pot vigorously for 4-5 minutes until all shells are open. Scatter with a generous handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley, add a grind of black pepper, and serve in the pot. The technique for the frites (which is at least as important as the mussels): peel firm potatoes (Bintje is the traditional variety — floury, golden, ideal for frying), cut into 1cm-thick sticks, rinse in cold water, and dry thoroughly. First fry at 150°C for 7-8 minutes until cooked through but pale (this is the blanchir stage). Drain, cool for at least 30 minutes (or up to several hours). Second fry at 180°C for 2-3 minutes until crisp and golden (the rissoler stage). Season immediately with fine salt. The double-frying is non-negotiable: it creates the internal creaminess and external crispness that define a proper frite. The combination works because the briny, wine-scented mussel liquor begs for something starchy and salty to soak it up — and the frite, dipped in the pot liquor, achieves exactly this. An empty mussel shell serves as pincers to extract the mussels — no fork required.

• Belgian moules-frites (essentially the same dish)
• British fish and chips (fried seafood + fried potato)
• Spanish mejillones (mussels in white wine)
• Dutch mosselen met friet (mussels and fries)