Friuli-Venezia Giulia — Meat & Secondi Authority tier 1

Musetto Friulano con Brovada

Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Friuli's canonical winter pairing: musetto (a fresh sausage of pig's snout meat, facial cartilage, and offal combined with spices) slow-boiled for 60-90 minutes, then sliced and served alongside braised brovada (fermented turnips). The musetto's cartilage-rich filling sets to a firm, gelatinous slice on cooling, and the sausage has a spiced, complex character from cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. The brovada's sourness cuts through the richness of the gelatinous pork. A canonical combination of San Silvestro (New Year's Eve) in Friuli.

Spiced, gelatinous pork with whispers of cinnamon and clove, against the sour, wine-perfumed brovada — a uniquely Friulian cold-weather pairing of extraordinary character

Musetto must be pricked with a needle before cooking to prevent the casing from bursting during the 90-minute boil — the pressure build-up from steam is considerable. It must be cooked at a gentle simmer (never a rolling boil) to prevent the casing from rupturing. Allowing it to cool slightly in the cooking water before slicing prevents crumbling — the cartilage needs 10 minutes to re-set. The brovada is braised separately in its cooking liquid with oil and onion.

Musetto can be found at quality Italian delicatessens outside Friuli. For the home preparation, the musetto can be wrapped tightly in foil before boiling if the casing integrity is uncertain — this contains any burst without losing the contents. Serve on a wooden board, sliced thick, with hot brovada in a separate bowl and crusty polenta on the side.

Boiling at a rolling boil bursts the casing. Slicing while too hot causes the cartilaginous filling to fall apart. Not pricking before cooking results in burst casings. Pairing with an unsuitable accompaniment — only brovada provides the acidic counterpoint the musetto requires.

La Cucina Friulana — Accademia Italiana della Cucina

{'cuisine': 'Emilia-Romagna', 'technique': 'Cotechino con Lenticchie', 'connection': 'Both are boiled gelatinous pork sausages (musetto uses snout cartilage, cotechino uses trotters and rind) served with an acidic or legume accompaniment — cotechino pairs with lentils, musetto pairs with fermented turnips, both representing the New Year tradition of pork-and-good-luck-accompaniment'} {'cuisine': 'German', 'technique': 'Sülzwurst (Souse/Head Cheese)', 'connection': 'Both are cartilage-and-meat gelatinous pork preparations from the same tradition of using every part of the pig — German version is cold-pressed and served as sliced aspic, Friulian is served hot from the boiling water with a fermented vegetable accompaniment'}