Milan, Lombardia
Milan's most idiosyncratic antipasto: boiled veal knee cartilage and tendons (nervetti) cooled to a gelatinous set, sliced, then dressed cold with white wine vinegar, thinly sliced white onion, capers, and flat-leaf parsley. A working-class delicacy once sold by weight at the trippai (tripe vendors) of Milan's old markets. The texture alternates between firm, gelatinous, and silky — a celebration of collagen-rich cuts.
Gelatinous, clean, sharply acidic from vinegar, pungent from raw onion — a bracing, austere antipasto that rewards adventurous eaters
Long boiling (3-4 hours) is essential to convert the collagen to gelatin while retaining some chewiness. The cartilage must cool in its own broth before slicing — this preserves moisture and prevents the nervetti from drying and toughening. The dressing must be sharp (white wine vinegar, not red) to cut through the natural richness of the boiled collagen. Onion must be raw and sliced very thin.
Add a few cloves and a bay leaf to the boiling water for subtle spice. The broth left after boiling sets to a rich aspic — use it for consommé or aspic work. For a refined presentation, press the boiled nervetti into a terrine mould with their broth, unmould cold, and slice as an aspic — a chic modern preparation of a humble ingredient.
Under-cooking leaves the nervetti chewy and unpleasant rather than yielding-gelatinous. Dressing while still warm causes the onion to wilt and the vinegar to flatten. Omitting the capers removes the dish's crucial salt-acid counterpoint. Serving too cold from the refrigerator deadens the flavours — bring to room temperature first.
La Cucina Milanese — Accademia Italiana della Cucina