The Noix de Grenoble (AOC 1938, the first AOC granted to a fruit in France) is the walnut of the Dauphiné — grown in the valleys of the Isère, Drôme, and Savoie around Grenoble, and the foundation of a walnut culture that pervades every aspect of the region's cuisine from oil to liqueur to pastry. Three varieties are authorized under the AOC: Franquette (the dominant variety — large, easy to crack, rich and buttery), Mayette (slightly smaller, more delicate flavor, excellent for confiserie), and Parisienne (vigorous, productive, slightly more tannic). The walnut harvest occurs in September-October: the nuts fall naturally from the trees (or are shaken down) and must be collected within 48 hours to prevent mould. They are then washed, dried to 12% moisture, and graded. Fresh walnuts (noix fraîches, available only September-October) are a seasonal delicacy — the kernel is white, milky, with a texture like fresh cheese and a sweet, green, almost grassy flavor utterly different from the dried walnuts available year-round. In the kitchen: Huile de noix (walnut oil) is the Dauphiné's primary salad oil — pressed from dried walnut kernels, the oil is fragrant, nutty, and perishable (use within 3 months of opening, store refrigerated). Walnut oil vinaigrette is the standard dressing for green salads, for lentil salads, and for the Dauphinois salade de noix (curly endive, walnuts, Bleu de Sassenage, walnut oil vinaigrette). Gâteau aux noix (walnut cake) is the region's signature pastry. Vin de noix (walnut wine/liqueur) is made by macerating green walnuts (picked at the Saint-Jean, June 24, when the shells haven't yet hardened) in red wine with sugar and eau-de-vie for 40 days. Noix confites (candied walnuts in caramel or honey) are the confiserie tradition.
AOC 1938 (first fruit AOC in France). Three varieties: Franquette, Mayette, Parisienne. Noix fraîches (Sept-Oct): milky, sweet, delicate. Huile de noix: pressed walnut oil, perishable, salad dressing. Vin de noix: green walnuts macerated in red wine + eau-de-vie (June 24 harvest). Gâteau aux noix. Walnut oil vinaigrette = Dauphiné standard.
For walnut oil vinaigrette: 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar, pinch of salt, whisk in 3 tablespoons walnut oil — dress frisée lettuce with warm lardons, crumbled Bleu de Sassenage, and toasted Grenoble walnuts for the definitive Dauphinois salad. For vin de noix: quarter 40 green walnuts (picked June 24), macerate in 5L red wine + 1L eau-de-vie + 1kg sugar for 40 days in a dark place, strain, bottle — drink as apéritif over ice. For gâteau aux noix: 200g ground walnuts + 150g sugar + 4 eggs (separated, whites beaten) + 50g flour + 100g melted butter — bake 170°C 35 minutes. Visit the Moulin de l'Île Verte in Grenoble (operating since 1852) for fresh-pressed walnut oil in autumn — the aroma of the pressing room is intoxicating.
Using stale walnut oil (it goes rancid quickly — always smell before using; rancid walnut oil is bitter and unpleasant). Heating walnut oil for cooking (it has a low smoke point and loses its flavor when heated — use exclusively cold, for dressing). Cracking fresh walnuts too early (fresh walnuts at market are meant to be eaten immediately — they don't keep). Substituting dried walnuts for fresh in season (fresh walnuts in September are a completely different product). Over-toasting walnuts (they go from golden to burnt in seconds — 8 minutes at 160°C maximum, watch constantly). Making vin de noix with ripe walnuts (they must be green, unripe, picked before the shell hardens — usually June 24).
Les Noix du Dauphiné — André Froment; La Cuisine Dauphinoise — Madeleine Allard