Nougat de Tours is not a nougat at all — it is a Tourangelle tart of macaroon-like almond paste baked on a pâte sucrée base and finished with a lattice of candied fruits and a dusting of icing sugar. The name's misleading etymology confuses visitors expecting the chewy Provençal confection, but this is purely a pâtisserie of the Loire. The base is a classic pâte sucrée blind-baked until just firm. The filling is a dense almond cream: equal parts ground almonds, sugar, and softened butter, bound with eggs and flavored with a generous slug of kirsch or rum. The mixture is spread into the tart shell, covered with a mosaic of candied fruits — traditional choices are bigarreaux cherries, angelica, citrus peel, and apricots — and baked at 170°C until the almond filling is set and the top is golden. A lattice pattern of the candied fruits across the top is the signature visual. The finished nougat is dusted with icing sugar while still warm, which melts slightly and creates a matte-white glaze. The texture is dense, moist, intensely almond-flavored — more macaroon than cake, more confection than pastry. It keeps exceptionally well (the sugar and almond fat preserve it for 10+ days), making it the traditional gift pastry of Tours — wrapped in cellophane with a ribbon, presented when visiting. Every pâtisserie in Tours makes its own version, and the best (Poirault, Sabat, Bigot) have multi-generational recipes. Nougat de Tours is the edible souvenir of the city, as much a part of Tourangelle identity as the châteaux.
Pâte sucrée base, dense almond cream filling. Equal parts almonds, sugar, butter, bound with eggs. Kirsch or rum flavoring. Candied fruit mosaic on top (cherries, angelica, citrus). 170°C until set and golden. Dust with icing sugar while warm. Dense, moist, macaroon-like texture. Traditional gift pastry of Tours.
Blanch and grind your own almonds for superior texture — commercial ground almonds are too fine. The candied fruit should be high quality (not the cheap neon-colored supermarket variety) — Apt in Provence produces the best. Press the fruits gently into the filling before baking so they don't slide. The nougat improves for 2-3 days after baking as the flavors meld. Serve with a glass of Vouvray demi-sec — the wine's sweetness and the kirsch in the pastry create a beautiful harmony.
Expecting Provençal-style nougat (this is a tart, not a confection). Under-baking the filling (must be set through — test with a knife). Using too few candied fruits on top (the mosaic is the visual signature). Over-mixing the almond cream (mix just until combined for the best texture). Using almond extract instead of whole ground almonds (the texture depends on the nut particles). Skipping the kirsch (it's essential, not optional).
Pâtisseries de France — Éric Kayser; Cuisine de Touraine Traditionnelle