Gubbio, Umbria
Gubbio's preparation of goose in the porchetta style: the whole goose deboned, seasoned internally with wild fennel, rosemary, garlic, the goose's liver (chopped fine), salt, and black pepper — the same aromatics as pork porchetta — then rolled, tied, and roasted in the wood oven for 2-3 hours, basting with the rendered goose fat. The goose's higher fat content means the dripping in the roasting tray becomes an extraordinary golden fat that bastes the bird continuously. The skin achieves a crackle that rivals pork. A specialist dish of the Apennine hill towns.
Rich goose fat, wild fennel perfume, and crackling goose skin — porchetta technique applied to the most flavourful of all domestic birds
Goose fat must be managed during roasting — the tray will accumulate significant liquid fat that can cause smoking and flare-up. Pierce the skin at the thigh and breast before roasting to allow fat to render freely. The rolling technique must be tighter than for pork porchetta because the goose skin is more elastic and will contract during cooking. Wild fennel is the defining aromatic — it stands up to the richness of goose fat.
Reserve all the rendered goose fat from the roasting tray — refrigerate in jars, it keeps for months and makes the finest fat for roasting potatoes and frying. The oca in porchetta is typically served at room temperature in Gubbio, sliced thin — the fat congeals slightly and makes the roll easier to portion. A simple salad of puntarelle with anchovy dressing is the traditional accompaniment.
Not managing the rendered fat during cooking — too much pooled fat smokes and burns. Under-deboning leaves bone splinters in the roll. Overcooking the goose's delicate liver filling (it should remain slightly pink in the centre). Not resting 15 minutes before slicing.
La Cucina dell'Umbria — Accademia Italiana della Cucina