Hawaiian Fish
Onaga is most traditionally steamed whole — Chinese-Hawaiian style, with ginger, green onion, soy, and sesame oil poured over the steamed fish. This preparation honours the fishʻs delicacy: steam cooks gently without Maillard browning, preserving the pale, sweet flesh. Also served as sashimi (the premium raw preparation), baked with light seasoning, or in misoyaki preparations (miso-glazed, broiled). The red skin is left on for presentation at celebrations.
1. EXCEPTIONAL: Wild-caught, same-day, steamed whole with ginger and green onion. The flesh is translucent-to-opaque, impossibly tender, sweet, and floral. The red skin glistens. 2. GOOD: Fresh onaga, properly steamed or baked. Delicate flavour preserved. 3. ADEQUATE: Previously frozen. The texture softens and the floral note diminishes. 4. INSUFFICIENT: Overcooked or heavily sauced. Onaga whispers. If you shout over it with heavy sauce, you have wasted a fish that costs $25-40 per pound.
EXCEPTIONAL: Wild-caught, same-day, steamed whole with ginger and green onion. The flesh is translucent-to-opaque, impossibly tender, sweet, and floral. The red skin glistens.
ADEQUATE: Previously frozen. The texture softens and the floral note diminishes. INSUFFICIENT: Overcooked or heavily sauced. Onaga whispers. If you shout over it with heavy sauce, you have wasted a fish that costs $25-40 per pound.
Pacific Migration Trail