Puglia — Bari province, the iconic Pugliese daily pasta
The definitive orecchiette preparation: handmade orecchiette with bitter turnip tops (cime di rapa/broccoli rabe) and anchovy. The orecchiette and cime di rapa are cooked in the same water — the pasta is added to the cime di rapa's boiling water, and both are drained together. The dish is dressed with a sauce of anchovies dissolved in olive oil with garlic and optional chilli. The bitter green, the salty-umami anchovy, and the olive oil richness are the three legs of this preparation. Orecchiette made from semolina and water, shaped by dragging a blunt knife across a dough rope.
Bitter, earthy cime di rapa against the umami-salty depth of dissolved anchovy; olive oil richness; the orecchiette cup each floret and pool the oil — one of Italy's essential pasta dishes in its regional canonical form
{"Make orecchiette with semola rimacinata and water only — no egg; the rough semolina surface is what makes the sauce cling","Drag technique: cut a 1cm piece from the rope, place a blunt knife at 45 degrees, drag toward you with pressure — the dough rolls around the knife tip and flicks into a little ear","Cook cime di rapa first in salted water for 5 minutes, then add the orecchiette to the same water — both finish together and the pasta absorbs the vegetable's bitter cooking liquid","Anchovies should dissolve completely in warm olive oil with garlic before adding the drained pasta-and-greens — no visible anchovy pieces in the finished dish","Pasta water reserved and used to loosen the sauce — the starch emulsifies the olive oil and anchovy into a coating sauce"}
{"For a more bitter character: use the thicker stems of the cime di rapa as well as the florets — traditionally discarded but full of flavour","Some Pugliese cooks add small crumbled pieces of fresh Pugliese sausage to the anchovy-oil at the last moment — a transitional version between the lean and rich preparations","Garlic must be removed before adding the pasta — raw garlic is too harsh in this context; the garlic-infused oil is the seasoning","Serve in warm, deep bowls — orecchiette cool quickly and the sauce congeals; temperature management matters"}
{"Cooking pasta and cime di rapa separately — the shared cooking water is how the pasta absorbs the vegetable's bitterness; separate cooking produces a flat-tasting dish","Visible anchovy pieces — they must dissolve completely; partially dissolved anchovies have a textural quality that is unpleasant","Smooth pasta substituted for orecchiette — the cup shape of orecchiette is functional; it cups the cime di rapa and sauce","Under-seasoning — this dish needs assertive olive oil quantity and full anchovy dissolution for its characteristic richness"}
La Cucina Pugliese (Newton Compton)