Ossobuco alla Milanese

Ossobuco — literally 'bone with a hole' — is a cross-cut of veal shank braised until the meat is meltingly tender and the marrow inside the bone is soft and scoopable. It is one of the great braised meat dishes of Italy and the quintessential secondo of Milan. The technique is a braise in the classic sense: the veal shanks (cut 3-4cm thick, with the bone in the centre containing the marrow) are dredged in flour and browned in butter until deeply golden, then braised in a mixture of white wine, broth, and tomato (the in bianco version omits the tomato and is considered the more ancient preparation). The shanks are cooked covered at low heat for 1.5-2 hours until the meat yields to a spoon and the marrow is soft. The gremolata — a raw mixture of finely chopped lemon zest, garlic, and flat-leaf parsley — is scattered over the ossobuco at the moment of service, providing a sharp, aromatic counterpoint to the rich, unctuous meat. The marrow is the prize: Milanese etiquette provides a special narrow spoon (or simply a coffee spoon) for extracting it from the bone. To leave the marrow is to insult the dish. Ossobuco is traditionally served with risotto alla milanese — the only pairing where risotto serves as accompaniment rather than course — and the golden saffron rice with the deep brown braised veal creates one of the great plate compositions of Italian cuisine.

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