Ossobuco — literally 'bone with a hole' — is a cross-cut of veal shank braised until the meat is meltingly tender and the marrow inside the bone is soft and scoopable. It is one of the great braised meat dishes of Italy and the quintessential secondo of Milan. The technique is a braise in the classic sense: the veal shanks (cut 3-4cm thick, with the bone in the centre containing the marrow) are dredged in flour and browned in butter until deeply golden, then braised in a mixture of white wine, broth, and tomato (the in bianco version omits the tomato and is considered the more ancient preparation). The shanks are cooked covered at low heat for 1.5-2 hours until the meat yields to a spoon and the marrow is soft. The gremolata — a raw mixture of finely chopped lemon zest, garlic, and flat-leaf parsley — is scattered over the ossobuco at the moment of service, providing a sharp, aromatic counterpoint to the rich, unctuous meat. The marrow is the prize: Milanese etiquette provides a special narrow spoon (or simply a coffee spoon) for extracting it from the bone. To leave the marrow is to insult the dish. Ossobuco is traditionally served with risotto alla milanese — the only pairing where risotto serves as accompaniment rather than course — and the golden saffron rice with the deep brown braised veal creates one of the great plate compositions of Italian cuisine.
Use veal hind shanks, cut 3-4cm thick — the hind shank has more meat and a larger marrow bone|Tie each piece with kitchen string around the circumference to hold the meat together during braising|Dredge in seasoned flour and brown in butter until deeply golden on both sides|Remove meat, build a soffritto of onion, carrot, celery in the same pan|Return meat, deglaze with dry white wine, add broth (and tomato passata for the modern version)|Braise covered at low heat (150-160°C oven or low stovetop) for 1.5-2 hours|The meat is done when it yields to a spoon without resistance|Make gremolata: finely mince lemon zest, garlic, and flat-leaf parsley — scatter over just before serving|Serve with risotto alla milanese and provide spoons for the marrow
The in bianco version (without tomato) is older and allows the veal and butter flavours to express more purely — try it once and you may never go back. The gremolata should be chopped very fine and made minutes before service — the lemon zest oxidises and loses its brightness quickly. Some Milanese cooks add a small amount of anchovy paste to the braising liquid for umami depth — this is not traditional but effective. The string should be removed before service. The ideal vessel is a heavy braiser or Dutch oven just large enough to hold the shanks in a single layer — crowding prevents proper browning. Ossobuco is better reheated the next day, but the gremolata must always be made fresh at service.
Using fore shanks — they have less meat and smaller bones. Cutting the shanks too thin — less than 3cm and the meat dries out during braising. Not tying the shanks — the meat falls off the bone in untidy shreds. Braising at too high a temperature — gentle heat is essential for tender, moist meat. Forgetting the gremolata — it is not a garnish but an essential component; without it, ossobuco is one-dimensional. Not eating the marrow — it is the soul of the dish.
Ada Boni, Il Talismano della Felicità (1927); Pellegrino Artusi, La Scienza in Cucina (1891); Gualtiero Marchesi, La Cucina Italiana (1989)