Pain de mie (‘crumb bread’) is France’s answer to the Pullman loaf: a fine-crumbed, soft, rectangular sandwich bread baked in a lidded tin (moule à pain de mie) that produces perfectly square slices with a thin, pale crust. The name itself reveals its purpose — this bread is valued entirely for its mie (crumb), not its croûte (crust), making it the philosophical opposite of the baguette. The dough is moderately enriched: flour (type 55), water, milk or milk powder (for tenderness and Maillard browning), butter (5-8% of flour weight), sugar (3-5%), salt (2%), and yeast. The hydration is lower than baguette dough (60-62%) to produce a tight, uniform crumb with small, evenly distributed alveoli. Mixing is thorough — the dough must pass the windowpane test, stretching thin enough to see light through without tearing, indicating full gluten development. The butter is incorporated after initial gluten development (the improved mixing method), worked in gradually until completely absorbed and the dough is smooth, supple, and slightly glossy. Bulk fermentation is brief (45-60 minutes at 26°C) with one fold. The dough is divided, rounded, rested 15 minutes, then shaped: either rolled into a tight cylinder for a single-piece loaf or divided into 3-4 balls placed side by side in the tin for a multi-piece loaf that pulls apart in portions. The lidded tin is buttered and the dough fills it one-third full; it proofs until the dough reaches 1cm below the lid (approximately 70-80 minutes at 27°C). The lid is closed and the bread bakes at 190-200°C for 30-35 minutes. The lid constrains expansion, forcing the dough to fill the rectangular mould perfectly while the trapped steam keeps the crust thin and pale. After baking, the bread is immediately unmoulded and cooled on a wire rack. Pain de mie must rest at least 4 hours (preferably overnight) before slicing — slicing warm bread compresses the crumb irreversibly.
Lidded tin essential for square shape and thin crust. Lower hydration (60-62%) for tight, uniform crumb. Butter incorporated after initial gluten development. Proof to 1cm below lid. Bake at 190-200°C for 30-35 minutes. Rest minimum 4 hours before slicing.
Brush the inside of the lid with butter to prevent sticking. If the bread seems pale when unmoulded, remove the lid and return to the oven for 5 minutes for light colour. The Japanese shokupan technique of the tangzhong (water roux) can be adapted for exceptional softness: cook 5% of the flour with five times its weight in water, cool, and add to the dough.
Over-proofing, causing the dough to press against the lid and collapse. Under-developing gluten, resulting in a crumbly texture. Baking with lid ajar, producing uneven top. Slicing while still warm. Using too much sugar, which causes excessive browning even with the lid.
Le Goût du Pain (Raymond Calvel)