Pain de méteil (maslin bread, from the Latin mixtellum meaning ‘mixed’) is the ancient mixed-grain bread of France made from equal parts wheat and rye flour — specifically, the legal French definition requires a flour blend of 50% wheat and 50% rye. This bread represents a tradition older than either pure wheat or pure rye bread: in medieval France, wheat and rye were often sown together in the same field (the practice called méteil or maslin), harvested together, milled together, and baked into a bread that combined the best qualities of both grains. The 50/50 blend produces a bread with more structure than pure rye (thanks to wheat’s gluten) but more flavour, moisture, and keeping quality than pure wheat (thanks to rye’s pentosans and organic acids). The dough must be leavened with levain — the acidity is essential for the rye component’s proper baking chemistry. A rye levain at 80-100% hydration is maintained and refreshed twice before the final dough mix. The final dough hydration is 70-75% (higher than pure wheat due to rye’s water absorption capacity). Mixing is moderate: enough to develop the limited gluten from the 50% wheat flour but not so much that the rye’s pentosan gel structure is damaged. The dough is slack, slightly sticky, and shaped with wet hands into large rounds (1-2kg) or ovals. Bulk fermentation is 2-3 hours with folds, or retarded overnight. Proofing in bannetons for 60-90 minutes. Scoring is moderate: the 50% rye content limits the dough’s ability to support deep cuts. Baking at 240°C falling to 210°C for 50-60 minutes for a 1.5kg loaf. The crumb is denser than pain de campagne but lighter than pure rye, with a characteristic grey-beige colour, slight tanginess, and a moist, slightly chewy texture that slices beautifully thin. The bread reaches its peak on day 2-3 and keeps for 7-10 days.
Legally 50% wheat, 50% rye flour. Must be levain-leavened for rye chemistry. Higher hydration than wheat bread (70-75%). Moderate mixing to balance wheat gluten and rye pentosans. Large format (1-2kg) preferred. Shape with wet hands. Peaks at day 2-3, keeps 7-10 days.
Autolyse the wheat flour and water for 30 minutes before adding the rye flour and levain — this gives the wheat gluten a head start on development. Add 1% whole caraway or fennel seeds for aromatic depth. This bread makes the finest base for a croque-monsieur or tartine when sliced thin and lightly toasted.
Deviating significantly from 50/50 ratio (it’s no longer méteil). Over-mixing, which damages rye pentosans. Using yeast alone, resulting in gummy crumb from amylase. Cutting before day 2, missing the peak flavour. Shaping with flour instead of wet hands. Underbaking the large, dense loaf.
Le Goût du Pain (Raymond Calvel)