Pain viennois (Viennese bread) represents the fascinating intersection of French and Austrian baking traditions, a lightly enriched bread distinguished by its soft, slightly sweet crumb, thin glossy crust, and characteristic diagonal scoring pattern. Introduced to Paris in the mid-19th century by August Zang, an Austrian entrepreneur who opened the Boulangerie Viennoise on the Rue de Richelieu in 1838, the Viennese style revolutionised French baking by demonstrating the use of compressed yeast (levure pressée), steam-injected ovens, and enriched doughs — all techniques that had been developed in Vienna’s sophisticated bakeries. The dough combines Type 55 flour, milk (replacing some or all of the water, typically 60-65% of flour weight), butter (5-8%), sugar (5-8%), salt (1.8%), eggs (10% of flour weight), and compressed yeast. The milk and egg enrichment produces a tender crumb with a fine, even texture and the characteristic golden-cream colour. Mixing is thorough: the dough must be fully developed, smooth and elastic, with butter incorporated after initial gluten formation. Bulk fermentation is moderate (1 hour at 25°C) with one fold. The dough is divided into 300-400g pieces, pre-shaped into balls, rested 15 minutes, then shaped into elongated ovals with rounded (not tapered) ends — the blunt shape distinguishes it from the pointed baguette. Before baking, the dough is egg-washed (whole egg beaten with a pinch of salt) for a glossy, mahogany crust, then scored with 10-12 shallow diagonal cuts across the top using scissors or a lame — the many cuts held close together create the loaf’s signature ribbed appearance. Baking at 200-210°C (lower than baguette due to the sugar and egg content, which brown more rapidly) for 18-22 minutes with minimal steam. The finished pain viennois should be soft, slightly sweet, with a thin golden crust — perfect for sandwiches (particularly the jambon-beurre), breakfast with jam, or as the foundation of a croque-monsieur.
Milk replaces water for tender crumb. Enriched with butter, sugar, and eggs. Blunt-ended shape, not tapered like baguette. Egg wash before baking for gloss. 10-12 shallow scissor cuts for signature ribbed top. Lower baking temperature (200-210°C) due to sugar content.
For maximum softness, replace 10% of the flour with tangzhong (flour cooked with 5 times its weight in water). Egg wash twice: once 20 minutes before baking (to set), once just before the oven (for depth of colour). The scissor cuts can be made at alternating angles left-right for an even more decorative presentation.
Baking at baguette temperature, burning the sugar-enriched crust. Tapering the ends like a baguette — pain viennois has blunt, rounded ends. Scoring too deeply — the cuts should be shallow and decorative. Forgetting egg wash, producing a pale, matte crust. Over-proofing, which causes the loaf to collapse in the oven.
Le Larousse du Pain (Eric Kayser)