Milan, Lombardy
Milan's savoury panettone — the leavened brioche-like bread made in the same cylindrical tall mould as the Christmas panettone but without the candied fruit and raisins, instead enriched only with butter and eggs. The gastronomico is baked, then sliced horizontally into 8–10 layers, and each layer is spread with savoury fillings (mortadella, smoked salmon, cream cheese, prosciutto, various combinations) and stacked back into the original shape. Presented whole at the table and sliced vertically through the layers. A show piece for aperitivo and celebration tables.
Buttery panettone crumb; savoury fillings in contrast; celebratory and versatile; show piece that delivers on substance
{"The bread dough is the same as panettone: multiple butter additions and long lievito madre (sourdough starter) rises — 24–36 hours total","Bake in the tall cylindrical panettone mould; cool upside down for 2 hours to prevent collapse (same as standard panettone)","Slice horizontally into 8–10 layers with a long bread knife — layers should be even and 1.5–2cm thick","Fill alternating layers with contrasting filling combinations — avoid wet fillings that soak the bread","Reassemble into the original shape; wrap in cling film and refrigerate 1 hour to set before service"}
{"The bread can be made 1–2 days ahead; the final filling and assembly done on the day of service","Cream cheese beaten with lemon zest and herbs makes an excellent neutral base that complements any savoury filling","For the aperitivo table: slice vertically into wedges at service so guests see all the layer colours simultaneously","The gastronomico concept works with any enriched bread: brioche, challah — but panettone's cottony crumb is optimal"}
{"Using commercial panettone — the enriched dough from scratch is what creates the correct cottony texture for the sliced layers","Wet fillings — cream-based or very moist fillings soak the delicate bread and the layers collapse when sliced","Slicing before completely cold — warm panettone compresses under the knife; fully cold slicing gives clean layers","Not wrapping after assembly — the layers shift and the shape becomes irregular; wrapping maintains structural integrity"}
La Cucina della Lombardia — Ottorina Perna Bozzi