San Sebastián, Basque Country
The signature pastry of San Sebastián — a rough-puff pastry case filled with pastry cream, topped with a second pastry lid, scattered with toasted flaked almonds, and dusted with sugar. Pantxineta was created at the Casa Otaegui confectionery in San Sebastián in 1897 and has remained essentially unchanged. It is simultaneously simple and precise: the rough-puff must be flaky, the cream must be set enough to hold its shape but light enough to melt on the tongue, the almonds must be properly toasted.
Rough-puff pastry made with cold butter worked by hand — not laminated but rested between folds. Pastry cream (crema pastelera) must be thick enough to hold shape when cold — a ratio of 4 egg yolks per litre of milk is the minimum. Chill the assembled tart before baking — the pastry must be cold when it hits the oven. Toasted flaked almonds added immediately before baking, after the egg wash. The sugar is added after baking, not before.
The original pantxineta at Casa Otaegui is considered the reference. The pastry cream can be flavoured with a strip of lemon zest during infusion for brightness. Ensure the pastry base is pricked well to prevent ballooning. Serve at room temperature — cold pantxineta loses its textural contrast.
Warm pastry going into the oven — the butter melts before steam can form layers. Pastry cream that's too loose — the filling spreads and the pastry becomes soggy. Under-toasting the almonds — they should be golden, not pale. Forgetting to rest the assembled tart in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes before baking.
The Basque Book by Alexandra Raij