Pasta alla Nerano is a relatively modern classic that has achieved legendary status—a dish of fried courgette rounds tossed with spaghetti or linguine and a creamy emulsion of Provolone del Monaco cheese, created in the 1950s at the Ristorante Maria Grazia in the tiny fishing village of Nerano on the Sorrentine Peninsula. Despite its recent origins, the dish embodies centuries-old Campanian principles: transforming a single seasonal vegetable into something luxurious through technique. The courgettes must be sliced into thin rounds (3-4mm) and fried in abundant olive oil or seed oil until deeply golden and slightly caramelized—not merely softened, but truly fried until they develop a sweet, concentrated flavour. The fried rounds are drained and rested (some cooks let them sit for several hours or overnight, during which they develop a more intense flavour). The pasta is cooked al dente in salted water, then tossed in a pan with a generous amount of grated Provolone del Monaco (the semi-hard, slightly spicy aged cheese from the nearby Lattari mountains), pasta cooking water, and a drizzle of olive oil. The cheese melts into the hot pasta water to form a creamy, stretchy sauce—the same mantecatura principle used in cacio e pepe. The fried courgette rounds are folded in gently at the end, their sweet richness complementing the sharp, slightly pungent cheese. Fresh basil is scattered over the top. The dish's popularity has exploded in recent decades—it now appears on menus across Italy—but the original at Maria Grazia remains the benchmark. The specific cheese matters enormously: Provolone del Monaco's semi-hard texture and spicy tang create a sauce that generic provolone or other cheeses cannot replicate.
Fry courgette rounds until deeply golden and caramelized. Use Provolone del Monaco specifically. Create cheese emulsion with pasta water (mantecatura). Fold in courgettes gently at the end. Finish with fresh basil.
Let the fried courgette rounds rest for several hours at room temperature before using—the flavour concentrates. Use a mix of Provolone del Monaco and a little Parmigiano for a more balanced sauce. The pasta water must be very starchy—cook in less water than usual. Work quickly during the mantecatura—the cheese can seize if the pan gets too hot.
Under-frying the courgettes (they must be golden, not just softened). Using generic provolone instead of Provolone del Monaco. Adding cream (the sauce comes from cheese and pasta water). Overcrowding the pan when frying. Breaking the courgette rounds during tossing.
Katie Parla, Food of the Italian South; Ristorante Maria Grazia tradition