Abruzzo — the shepherd country of the Apennines. The callara was the iron cauldron carried by the transhumant shepherds and used for the communal preparation of sheep during the migrations. The dish is one of the most direct survivals of the shepherd cooking culture.
Pecora alla callara (or caldara) is one of the oldest preparations of the Abruzzese shepherd tradition: whole pieces of mature ewe (pecora — not lamb) slow-cooked for 4-5 hours in a large iron cauldron (callara) with water, wine, and a handful of herbs until completely tender, then dressed with the cooking broth. It is fundamentally a dish of transhumance — prepared when a sheep had to be slaughtered during the mountain migrations, using the simplest available technique. The mature sheep's deep flavour and high fat content, which make it too strong for roasting or grilling, become assets in the long boil. It is served with the broth ladled over and dressed with extra-virgin olive oil.
Mature sheep has a flavour that lamb cannot replicate — deep, slightly gamey, intensely savoury, with the particular fat character of an animal that has grazed for years on mountain herbs. The broth it produces is dark gold and aromatic. The meat, pulled from the bone, is tender and rich. With raw olive oil and crusty bread, it is a complete meal of the Apennine tradition.
Mature ewe (pecora) must be used — the flavour of young lamb is too delicate for this preparation. Cut into large joints. Start in cold, well-salted water in a large pot, bring to a bare simmer, skim the grey foam (10-15 minutes of skimming). Add a halved onion, celery, carrot, bay, rosemary, and a glass of dry white wine. Simmer at the gentlest possible heat — just enough to maintain the trembling surface — for 4-5 hours, until the meat pulls away from the bone. The broth produced is separately valuable — season, ladle over the meat, and serve with good bread to soak the broth. A final drizzle of raw olive oil is essential.
The callara broth, sieved and seasoned, is among the best bases for pasta dishes — use it for any of the Abruzzese pasta-in-brodo preparations. Mature sheep is not always available from supermarkets — a halal butcher or a farmer's market is the reliable source. In the Abruzzese tradition, the broth and the meat are served as two separate courses: first the broth with pasta, then the meat.
Using lamb instead of mature sheep — the flavour is completely different; the dish depends on the strength of mature sheep. Boiling instead of simmering — the agitation breaks down the fat and makes the broth cloudy and greasy. Not skimming — the grey foam contains blood proteins that make the broth bitter. Rushing — 4 hours minimum is required; undercooked mature sheep is simply tough.
Slow Food Editore, Abruzzo in Cucina; Oretta Zanini de Vita, The Food of Rome and Lazio