Montilla-Moriles and Jerez de la Frontera, Andalusia
Pedro Ximénez (PX) is not just a wine — it is a demonstration of what happens when grapes are dried to raisins before pressing. Pedro Ximénez grapes are spread on esparto mats in the sun (soleo) for 2-3 weeks, during which they lose up to 60-70% of their moisture and concentrate their sugars to extraordinary levels. The resulting must, when fermented and fortified, achieves residual sugar levels of 400-500g/L — approximately 10-15 times the residual sugar of Sauternes. The wine is black, viscous, and tastes of concentrated raisins, molasses, dark chocolate, and coffee. It pours slowly, coats the glass, and is one of the most intense sensory experiences in any wine category.
The soleo (sun-drying) is the critical step — the degree of drying determines the final sugar concentration. The resulting wine requires fortification to above 17% ABV to stop fermentation before all the sugar ferments out. PX is aged in its own solera, separate from other sherry types. Service: a small copita (50-60ml maximum) at 14-16°C. The classic service is poured over vanilla ice cream — the combination of frozen cream and warm, viscous wine is a sensory contrast of the highest order.
PX poured over vanilla ice cream (PX con helado) is the definitive Córdoba dessert experience and one of the great easy desserts. In cooking, PX replaces port in most preparations and adds darker, more raisin-forward notes. Use it to deglaze pans after cooking duck or game. Combine with dark chocolate in a ganache.
Over-serving — PX is intense and should be consumed in small quantities. Serving ice cold — the viscosity increases at low temperature and some of the dried-fruit aromatics close. Not using PX in cooking — it is one of the best cooking wines in the world for dessert sauces, chocolate dishes, and game reductions.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden