Reggio Calabria and the Strait of Messina, Calabria
Calabria's swordfish preparation in the Reggio style: thick steaks of swordfish (caught from the Strait of Messina where the current creates ideal conditions for the fish's passage) dressed with a salmoriglio sauce — olive oil, lemon juice, dried oregano, garlic, and flat-leaf parsley beaten together — applied both as a marinade before grilling and as a sauce poured over the hot fish at service. The salmoriglio is the Calabrian-Sicilian universal fish sauce: sharp, herbal, intensely aromatic.
Charred, oceanic swordfish with the sharp, herbal, lemon-oregano fragrance of salmoriglio — the taste of the Strait of Messina in July
The swordfish must be cut thick (2-3cm) to withstand high-heat grilling without drying — thinner cuts lose moisture before developing a crust. Salmoriglio must be made fresh and used immediately — the emulsion is unstable and the lemon juice begins denaturing the herbs within an hour. The fish is grilled over the highest possible heat for 2-3 minutes per side — the goal is maximum Maillard crust with a barely-cooked (translucent at centre) interior. Rest 3 minutes before service.
The canonical Messina Strait swordfish season is July-August when the fish are at peak fat content from feeding. For year-round access, wild-caught Pacific swordfish is an acceptable substitute. The salmoriglio technique works equally well with tuna, grouper, and sea bass — it is a universal Calabrian grilling sauce for any firm-fleshed fish. A few capers and a sliced red chilli can be added to the salmoriglio for a more Calabrian character.
Thin-cut swordfish that overcooks before the exterior is properly seared. Salmoriglio made in advance (it oxidises and the herbs turn bitter). Cooking at insufficient heat — swordfish needs high, direct heat to char properly. Over-cooking to opaque throughout — the fish should remain slightly translucent at the centre.
La Cucina della Calabria — Accademia Italiana della Cucina