Val di Chiana and Siena, Tuscany
The pasta of the Val di Chiana and Siena: pici (thick, hand-rolled spaghetti, pencil-thick, irregular, without egg — just water and flour) dressed with a sauce of aglione della Valdichiana (a very large, mild garlic variety unique to the Chiana valley) crushed and slow-melted in olive oil with fresh tomatoes and white wine until a sweet, barely-there garlic-tomato sauce forms. Unlike Amatriciana or pesto, the aglione sauce is not assertive — the colossal garlic cloves have almost no sharpness when slow-cooked and produce a sweet, slightly honeyed tomato sauce with a faint garlic warmth.
Thick, hand-rolled pasta with the gentle sweet warmth of aglione garlic — mild, bright, honeyed from the slow-cooked enormous garlic — uniquely Tuscan simplicity
Aglione garlic (not regular garlic) is essential — it is a different Allium variety with much lower allicin content, which is why it can be used in enormous quantities without sharpness. If aglione is unavailable, use elephant garlic (also low-allicin) or pre-roast regular garlic until completely sweet. Pici must be hand-rolled — machine-made pici (flat spaghetti) lacks the irregular rough surface that grips the sauce. The tomatoes must be in-season and ripe.
For the hand-rolling technique: break off a small piece of dough, roll under the palms on a dry surface into a 30-40cm rope of pencil thickness, let it fall naturally rather than forcing it thinner. Irregularity is correct — uniform pici are not authentic. The sauce should be very saucy (loose), as the thick pici absorbs the liquid during the 30 seconds they rest in the sauce before plating.
Using regular garlic in aglione quantities — overwhelmingly sharp. Machine-made pici — lacks the characteristic hand-rolled texture. Over-cooking the tomato sauce — it should be bright and barely reduced after 20-25 minutes. Under-sizing the aglione portions — it should be generous, not a background note.
La Cucina Toscana — Giovanni Righi Parenti