Pithiviers — the town in the Loiret — gives its name to two distinct culinary preparations that share only their round shape and their origin: the gâteau de Pithiviers (a puff pastry galette filled with frangipane) and the pâté de Pithiviers en croûte (a game meat pie). The gâteau de Pithiviers is the original galette des rois — the Twelfth Night cake that predates the Parisian version. While Paris adopted a simple round of puff pastry with frangipane, Pithiviers insists on its signature: the pastry lid is scored in a precise, curved pattern radiating from the center (les rayons or la rosace), creating a dramatic, flame-like design that puffs open during baking to reveal golden, caramelized layers. The frangipane filling is almond cream only — no pastry cream blended in (unlike the Parisian crème d'amande-crème pâtissière mix). This means 125g butter, 125g sugar, 125g ground almonds, 2 eggs, a tablespoon of rum, and nothing else. The pastry must be feuilletage classique (minimum 6 turns) — the Pithiviers is a test of the pâtissier's lamination skill. The pâté de Pithiviers en croûte is an entirely different creation: a raised pie of lark or game bird forcemeat (today usually pheasant, partridge, or duck) encased in a decorated hot-water crust or pâte brisée, baked and served cold. The filling is a coarse forcemeat studded with foie gras, truffles, and pistachios, bound with egg and Cognac. A gelée of game stock is poured through the chimney hole after baking and sets as the pie cools. This is haute charcuterie — a competition piece, a réveillon dish, an expression of the Loire's game-rich terroir.
Two distinct dishes sharing a name. Gâteau: puff pastry, pure almond frangipane (no pastry cream), rosace scoring pattern. Feuilletage classique, 6+ turns. Pâté en croûte: game forcemeat, foie gras, truffles, hot-water crust, gelée finish. Gâteau = Twelfth Night galette des rois origin.
For the gâteau scoring: use the back of a small knife, starting from center and curving outward in a pinwheel. Each cut should be 2mm deep — enough to open during baking but not pierce through. Egg wash twice: once before scoring, once after. Bake at 220°C for 10 minutes then 180°C for 25-30 minutes — the high initial heat creates maximum puff. For the pâté en croûte, the gelée must be poured warm but not hot, and the pie must be completely cold — patience is the critical ingredient.
Blending pastry cream into the frangipane (Pithiviers uses pure almond cream). Scoring straight lines instead of curved rosace pattern. Under-baking (the top should be deeply caramelized, almost lacquered). For the pâté: not leaving a chimney for steam and gelée. Serving the pâté warm (it's a cold preparation — the gelée must be set).
Le Grand Livre de la Pâtisserie — Gaston Lenôtre; La Charcuterie Française — Marcel Cottenceau