Pitta 'mpigliata (also pitta 'nchiusa) is Calabria's spectacular Christmas pastry—a rose-shaped or coiled assembly of thin pastry strips filled with a mixture of walnuts, raisins, honey, cinnamon, and cloves, arranged in a round pan to create a flower-like pattern, then baked until golden and glossy. The pastry is the undisputed queen of Calabrian holiday desserts, made in every household from the Cosenza province to the Sila mountains during the Christmas season. The name 'mpigliata derives from the dialect for 'tangled' or 'entwined,' describing the intricate coiling of the filled pastry strips. The dough is a simple wine-and-oil pastry (flour, white wine, olive oil, a touch of sugar) rolled very thin and cut into strips about 8cm wide. Each strip is spread with the filling—coarsely chopped walnuts, raisins (sometimes soaked in rum or liqueur), honey, cinnamon, cloves, and grated citrus zest—then rolled into a tight spiral and arranged standing upright in a round baking pan, with the spirals packed together to create the rose-petal effect. As the pitta bakes, the pastry crisps, the honey and nuts caramelise, and the spice perfume fills the kitchen. The finished pitta is unmoulded and glazed with warm honey. The eating experience is a study in textures: shattering thin pastry, chewy raisins, crunchy walnuts, and sticky honey. Each spiral can be pulled apart by hand. The pastry keeps well for weeks, improving in flavour as the honey and spices meld—making it ideal for the extended Italian holiday visiting season.
Wine-and-oil pastry, rolled very thin. Fill with walnuts, raisins, honey, cinnamon, cloves, citrus zest. Roll into tight spirals and arrange upright in a round pan. Bake until golden. Glaze with warm honey. Traditional Christmas pastry of Calabria.
The dough should rest for at least 30 minutes before rolling—it becomes more pliable. Toast the walnuts lightly before chopping for deeper flavour. The spirals should be placed very tightly in the pan—they support each other and create the rose effect. Some families add a shot of espresso to the filling for depth. The pitta is best after 2-3 days when the flavours have fully melded.
Rolling the pastry too thick (must be thin enough to shatter when baked). Under-filling (the nut-honey mixture should be generous). Packing the spirals too loosely in the pan (they should be snug). Using butter instead of olive oil in the dough (changes the texture and tradition). Skipping the honey glaze.
Touring Club Italiano, Calabria in Cucina; Carol Field, The Italian Baker