Cosenza province, Calabria — particularly associated with the Rossano and Corigliano areas. Pitta 'mpigliata is documented as a Christmas pastry in Calabrian sources from at least the 17th century; the fig-walnut-spice filling reflects the Arab-influenced sweetmeat tradition of southern Italy.
Pitta 'mpigliata (pitta = flatbread, 'mpigliata = wrapped/folded) is one of the most ancient and characteristically Calabrian confections: a circular pastry case made from a short, wine-enriched dough, filled with a dense mixture of dried figs, walnuts, honey, cinnamon, cloves, and vincotto, then folded and baked until the pastry is golden and the filling has caramelised into a dark, intensely spiced mass. It is the Christmas and wedding pastry of the Cosenza province — prepared in large quantities, elaborately decorated, and given as gifts. The combination of dried figs, walnuts, and warm spices is the characteristic flavour of the Calabrian festival pastry tradition.
Pitta 'mpigliata is intensely sweet-spiced — the dried figs have concentrated all their sweetness during drying; the vincotto adds a dark, complex note; the cinnamon and cloves warm everything; the walnuts provide a bitter-nutty counterpoint. The pastry is short and golden, a neutral vehicle for the complex filling. One is enough. It is the flavour of Calabrian Christmas — concentrated, ancient, and generous.
The pastry dough: 500g flour, 150ml olive oil, 100ml dry white wine, pinch of salt, pinch of baking soda. Mix and knead briefly — this dough should not be over-worked. Rest 20 minutes. The filling: 500g dried figs (stemmed, roughly chopped), 200g walnuts (coarsely chopped), honey (100g), vincotto (50ml), cinnamon (1 teaspoon), cloves (1/4 teaspoon, ground), optional candied citron peel. Mix the filling ingredients together. Roll the pastry to 3mm, cut into circles (12cm). Place a generous amount of filling in the centre. Fold and pinch the pastry into the characteristic flower shape (petals folded toward the centre). Brush with egg wash. Bake at 170°C for 25-30 minutes until golden.
The vincotto of Calabria (mosto cotto — cooked grape must, reduced to a thick, dark syrup) is the traditional liquid in the filling; it adds both sweetness and a complex, slightly bitter grape note that honey alone doesn't provide. The traditional decorative shaping (petals pinched toward the centre) requires practice — some Calabrian families have specific family patterns passed down through generations.
Dough over-worked — the pastry should be tender and short, not elastic; a few minutes of mixing is sufficient. Filling too dry — the vincotto and honey should make it cohesive; add more vincotto if it crumbles. Under-baking — the pastry must be fully golden and the filling caramelised; pale pitta 'mpigliata has an uncooked dough flavour.
Carol Field, The Italian Baker; Slow Food Editore, Calabria in Cucina