Calabria (interior and hill towns)
Calabria's ancient filled Christmas pastry — a sealed tart of short pastry encasing a filling of dried figs, raisins, walnuts, almonds, honey, vincotto (cooked grape must), cinnamon, cloves, and 'nduja for the occasional savoury variant. The sealed pitta (from the same Greek word that gives us Pitta bread — 'flat baked thing') is decorated with pastry cuts or impressions before baking, and the dried fruit filling develops an almost jam-like consistency during baking as the honey and vincotto caramelise. A Christmas and feast-day preparation found across the Calabrian interior.
Rich, dark dried fruit caramelised in vincotto and honey, encased in crumbling short pastry — ancient flavours of the Calabrian winter table
The vincotto (grape must cooked to syrup) is the binding liquid for the filling — it caramelises during baking and sets the dried fruit into a unified, sliceable mass. The short pastry must be rich (egg yolks, lard, and a small amount of wine) to provide a firm structure that holds the dense filling. The filling must be cold before assembling — hot or warm filling softens the pastry and prevents proper sealing. The pastry must be sealed and crimped firmly to prevent bursting during baking.
Vincotto (mosto cotto) is available from Italian specialty suppliers or can be made at home by slowly simmering grape must to a quarter of its volume. The pitta improves over 2-3 days as the dried fruit filling re-hydrates from the pastry's moisture and the flavours meld. For gifting: wrap in parchment and store at room temperature for up to two weeks.
Warm filling — the pastry becomes soggy before it even enters the oven. Under-filling — too little filling produces a dry, pastry-dominated result. Skimping on the vincotto — it's the essential binding and caramelising element. Not crimping firmly enough allows the filling to burst through the seams.
I Dolci della Tradizione Calabrese — Accademia Italiana della Cucina