Portugal (multiple regional variants)
Portugal's ancient sponge cake — one of the oldest European sponge preparations, predating the French biscuit de Savoie and the Italian pan di Spagna. Pão de Ló is pure egg: egg yolks, whole eggs, sugar, and flour (or no flour at all in some versions), whisked to a thick ribbon and baked carefully to produce a cake that ranges from fully set (the Alfeizeirão version) to barely set (the Ovar version, which has a deliberately runny centre that oozes when the top is cut). The Ovar version — pão de ló húmido (wet sponge) — is perhaps the most technically demanding of all Portuguese pastries: it must be baked to a precise point where the exterior is just set but the interior is still a pourable custard.
The egg and sugar must be whisked to the ribbon stage — when the whisk is lifted, the mixture should fall in a thick ribbon that holds its shape for 3-4 seconds. Fold the flour in three additions, deflating as little as possible. Bake at 180°C for the standard version (25-30 minutes). For the húmido (Ovar) version, bake at 175°C for 18-20 minutes — remove when the top is set but the centre still wobbles. Cool in the tin upside down.
The pão de ló húmido of Ovar is best eaten the same day — it deteriorates quickly as the liquid interior continues to cook in the residual heat. The firm version from Alfeizeirão keeps for several days and improves as the texture evens out. Both should be served with a glass of Moscatel de Setúbal or port. The sponge is the basis for several layered Portuguese desserts — it can be soaked with port wine or sugar syrup for additional moisture.
Under-whisking the eggs — insufficient air produces a flat, dense cake. Over-mixing after flour addition — deflates the batter. Over-baking the húmido version — the liquid centre is the entire point. Cooling right-side up — the delicate structure collapses.
Leite's Culinaria — Portuguese tradition