Époisses is Burgundy’s most famous and most pungent cheese—a small, round, washed-rind disc with an orange-red surface and an oozing, spoonable interior that has earned it the nickname ‘the king of cheeses’ (attributed variously to Brillat-Savarin and Napoleon). The cheese holds an AOC/AOP since 1991 and is produced exclusively in the Époisses region from raw or pasteurised cow’s milk. The production technique is what gives Époisses its extraordinary character: after moulding and initial draining, the young cheeses are washed three times per week with a solution of water and Marc de Bourgogne (Burgundy’s pomace brandy) for a minimum of 5 weeks. This washing cultivates Brevibacterium linens on the rind—the same bacteria responsible for its powerful aroma—while the alcohol from the marc prevents competing moulds. Each successive wash uses a slightly stronger marc solution, gradually deepening the rind’s colour from ivory to deep orange-red. A ripe Époisses at 6-8 weeks is a transformative eating experience: the rind is slightly sticky and deeply aromatic (its reputation for powerful smell is entirely justified), while the interior has liquefied to a flowing, silky cream with flavours of butter, mushroom, bacon, and a lingering complexity that evolves on the palate for minutes. In the Burgundian kitchen, Époisses is heated in its wooden box at 180°C for 15 minutes until molten, then served communally with bread for dipping—the Époisses chaude—or crumbled into a gratin or soufflé where its intensity provides depth that no other cheese can match.
Serve at room temperature (minimum 1 hour out of the refrigerator) for full flavour expression. When baking in its box, remove the lid and bake at 180°C for exactly 15 minutes—beyond this it separates. Pair with Burgundy wines: Marc de Bourgogne (the washing spirit), Gewürztraminer, or Sauternes—never with delicate white wines. Use sparingly in cooking—its intensity means a small amount transforms a dish. The rind is edible and contains concentrated flavour.
For the ultimate Époisses experience, pair with a glass of Marc de Bourgogne—the same spirit used to wash the cheese, creating a closed flavour loop of extraordinary harmony. When making a gratin or soufflé with Époisses, use it in combination with a milder cheese (Gruyère or Comté) at a 1:3 ratio—the Époisses provides the aromatic punch while the milder cheese provides body. The finest Époisses comes from Fromagerie Berthaut, which revived the cheese from near-extinction in the 1950s. Buy the raw-milk version (lait cru) when available—the pasteurised version is a shadow of the original.
Serving straight from the refrigerator, when the interior is solid and the flavour muted. Pairing with delicate wines that are overwhelmed by the cheese’s power. Discarding the rind, which is the most flavourful part. Overheating when baking, causing the proteins to separate and become grainy. Storing improperly—wrap in waxed paper, never cling film, and keep in the warmest part of the refrigerator.
Fromages de Bourgogne — Patrick Rance