Valle d'Aosta — widespread, particularly in mountain farmhouses during winter
The Aosta Valley's most beloved comfort preparation: polenta stirred with Fontina DOP Valle d'Aosta and butter until the cheese melts into the polenta in long strands. Unlike standard polenta with cheese added on top, 'concia' means the polenta is literally 'fixed' or 'set' with cheese — the Fontina must be incorporated during the final cooking so it melts into the polenta's starch matrix rather than floating on top. The result is a golden, stretchy mass that pulls apart in long, elastic strings when served. The Fontina used must be the mountain variety (alpeggio) from summer Alpine pastures.
Golden polenta warmth meeting the sweet, milky elasticity of Fontina; the butter adds sheen; eating pulls long cheese strands that resist the fork — a dish that demands immediate consumption and rewards patience in the making
{"Use Fontina DOP Valle d'Aosta specifically — standard Fontina from other regions lacks the specific fat structure and melt properties of Aosta valley Fontina","Cut Fontina into small cubes before adding — large pieces do not melt evenly into the polenta mass","Add Fontina only when polenta is completely cooked and pulled from heat — residual heat melts the cheese; on heat it separates","Fold cold butter in with the cheese — butter acts as an emulsifier that helps distribute the cheese's fat evenly","Work quickly after adding cheese — as the polenta cools, the cheese sets and stops incorporating; immediate vigorous folding is essential"}
{"Alpeggio Fontina (from cows grazing Alpine pastures in summer, June–September) has the highest fat content and most complex flavour — reserve this for concia","The polenta should be made with the finest-ground corn flour for concia — rough polenta produces a gritty texture that the cheese cannot smooth","Individual bowls should be warmed before serving — concia firms rapidly on cold surfaces","A finishing drizzle of mountain butter (burro di malga) over the bowl is the Aosta alpine tradition"}
{"Adding cheese to uncooked or undercooked polenta — the cheese's fat separates and pools before the starch can hold it","Using Fontina from Danish or Swedish sources — they have higher water content and melt to a rubbery pool rather than stretchy strands","Stirring gently — vigorous folding is required to distribute the cheese throughout the polenta mass","Reheating concia — it loses the stretch and becomes dense; make fresh and serve immediately"}
Valle d'Aosta in Cucina (Musumeci Editore)