Valle D'aosta — Rice & Risotto Authority tier 1

Polenta Concia Valdostana con Fontina

Valle d'Aosta — Regione intera

Valle d'Aosta's richest winter preparation — coarsely ground polenta stirred for 45 minutes and then enriched with an extraordinary quantity of Fontina DOP (melted into the polenta at the end, off heat) and a full block of butter. When the cheese and butter are added, the polenta transforms from a firm porridge into a flowing, stringy, golden mass that drapes from the spoon. Nothing else is added. Nothing else is needed.

Rich, nutty Fontina creaminess, coarse polenta earthiness, butter richness — extravagant, warming, the most Alpine expression of Italian cooking

{"Fontina DOP from Valle d'Aosta (not Danish or Scandinavian 'Fontina') — only Aosta Valley Fontina has the correct fat content and melting quality for this preparation","Polenta bramata (coarse grind): fine polenta produces a different texture; the coarse variety gives a mealier, toothier base that contrasts the smooth melted cheese","Butter first: cold butter diced and stirred into the polenta until fully absorbed before adding cheese","Fontina: sliced, not grated — placed on the hot polenta after removing from heat, then folded slowly rather than stirred vigorously","The ratio: 400g Fontina and 100g butter per 500g polenta — any less and the result is polenta with cheese melted in rather than polenta concia"}

{"A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg into the polenta during cooking — the classic Valdostano aromatics","Pour into individual earthenware bowls slightly underfilled — the Fontina continues to melt and the polenta swells as it sits","Traditionally served in autumn at end of the transumanza (shepherd's descent from alpine pastures) — Fontina is at its richest in autumn","Any leftover polenta concia cooled in a pan, then sliced and fried in butter the next morning is one of the best breakfasts in the Alps"}

{"Danish Fontina — produces a milder, less complex result; the DOP is non-negotiable","Grated cheese added while still on heat — seizes into strings rather than melting into the polenta","Too little butter or cheese — the richness must be startling; under-enriched polenta concia is just polenta with a bit of cheese","Fine polenta — produces a texture too smooth to contrast the Fontina richness"}

La Cucina di Valle d'Aosta — Ricette e Tradizioni (Musumeci Editore)

{'cuisine': 'Swiss', 'technique': 'Käsefondue with bread', 'connection': 'Melted Gruyère and Emmental enriched with wine and served with bread for dipping — both exploit the extraordinary melting quality of Alpine cheeses at high fat content'} {'cuisine': 'Scottish', 'technique': 'Bashed neeps and champit tatties with cream', 'connection': 'Starchy vegetable preparation enriched at the end with extraordinary quantities of fat — both traditions understand that the fat IS the dish, not merely the enrichment'} {'cuisine': 'French Savoyard', 'technique': 'Tartiflette (potato, Reblochon, cream)', 'connection': "Alpine cheese melted into a starchy base with generous butter — the Savoie and Valle d'Aosta traditions are structurally identical in their philosophy of excess enrichment"}