Marche
A thick mountain polenta from the Apennine hills of the Marche — coarse-ground local corn polenta slow-stirred for 45 minutes in a copper pot, dressed with a rich porcini mushroom and fresh pork sausage sauce. The mushrooms are sourced from the Sibillini hills (fresh in autumn, dried and reconstituted otherwise) and the sausage is the local fennel-scented variety. Served on a wooden board for communal eating.
Earthy, porky, mushroomy and deeply satisfying; the porcini give a forest floor depth; sausage adds fennel sweetness; the coarse polenta gives textural pleasure — mountain food at its most generous
{"Use coarse-ground polenta (bramata) — fine polenta cooks faster but lacks the textural presence of a mountain dish","Ratio: 1 part polenta to 4 parts water with salt added before the polenta — under-salted polenta tastes flat regardless of the topping","Stir constantly with a wooden spoon for 45 minutes minimum — polenta requires constant attention to prevent scorching","Sauté porcini at high heat in olive oil until golden — steaming rather than searing is the most common porcini mistake","Crumble and brown sausage before adding mushrooms — the sausage fat bastes the porcini as they cook together"}
{"If using dried porcini, reserve the soaking liquid (strained through cheesecloth) and add it to the sausage sauce — extraordinary depth","A small knob of butter stirred into the polenta at the end (the mantecatura) gives a creamy richness","Pour the polenta onto a damp wooden board, let it set for 2 minutes, then dress — the board imparts a faint wood aroma"}
{"Fine polenta instead of coarse — the texture is inadequate for a dish meant to be served on a wooden board","Insufficient cooking time — undercooked polenta is gritty; 45 minutes is the minimum","Crowding the pan for the mushrooms — they steam rather than sear and lose their character"}
La Cucina delle Marche — Sapori e Tradizioni