Molise (mountains and interior)
Molise's winter polenta service: coarsely-milled yellow polenta cooked for 60-90 minutes in the traditional paiolo (copper pot), served on a wooden board (the 'spianatora') and topped with a slow-braised tomato sauce of pork spare rib tips (spuntature) — the short, cartilage-rich rib ends that cook long in tomato, onion, wine, and lard until collapse-tender and the braising liquid is concentrated and glossy. The polenta is poured directly onto the board and the meat and sauce ladled over — no plates, communal eating.
Earthy, unctuous polenta against the deep, collagen-rich pork-tomato sauce of the spuntature — communal winter eating of complete satisfaction
Coarse-milled polenta (not instant or fine) is essential — it requires the full 60-90 minutes of constant stirring and develops a flavour unavailable in quick versions. The spuntature must be cooked for minimum 2 hours until completely tender — the collagen from the cartilage thickens the braising sauce. Lard (not olive oil) is the traditional fat for the braising — it gives a richness and pork-fat depth characteristic of Molisano mountain cooking.
The traditional way to eat: gather around the board, standing, and use a fork or bread to eat directly from the communal surface. For civilised service: ladle portions of polenta into warmed bowls and top with the spuntature and sauce. The leftover polenta, when cold and set, can be sliced and grilled or fried in the spuntature fat for a second meal of extraordinary quality.
Using instant polenta — the texture and flavour cannot approximate the slow-cooked version. Rushing the spuntature — they must be collapse-tender with the sauce concentrated to a glaze. Serving on plates instead of the board removes the communal dimension that defines the traditional service. Under-seasoning the polenta — it needs aggressive salting during cooking.
La Cucina del Molise — Accademia Italiana della Cucina