Brescia, Lombardia
Brescia's celebrated autumn preparation: small whole roasted birds (traditionally thrushes, sparrows, or larks — now replaced by quail or woodcock due to hunting regulations) rested on a mound of soft, yellow polenta. The birds are threaded on a spit or roasted in the wood oven until the skin crisps and the juices run clear, then laid on the polenta which absorbs the roasting juices and rendered fat as the birds rest. The polenta becomes, in effect, the gravy-soaker.
Gamey, intensely savoury from rendered small-bird fat, with the earthy softness of polenta absorbing every drop — a fundamentally autumn, hunter's dish
The polenta must be soft (not set) to function as a fat-absorbing medium — it should pour slowly from the pot. The birds must rest on the polenta while still hot so that their rendered fat and juices saturate the grain below. The roasting must produce genuinely crisp, rendered skin — this requires high heat and dry birds. Small birds need only 15-20 minutes at 220°C.
Wrap each bird in a piece of pancetta or lardo before roasting — this bastes the breast automatically and adds another fat layer for the polenta to absorb. The canonical accompaniment in Brescia is a glass of Franciacorta Satèn or a light Valtenesi rosé. For modern substitution, quality quail or pigeon work beautifully — spatchcock and roast flat for even skin crisping.
Using set polenta that cannot absorb the juices defeats the purpose — the polenta must remain fluid enough to drink in the rendered fat. Over-cooking the birds produces dry, chewy flesh — they should be just-cooked with a slight pinkness at the bone. Ignoring the quality of the bird — quail or woodcock need to be high quality; battery-farmed birds produce little flavour.
La Cucina Bresciana — Accademia Italiana della Cucina