Poularde Demi-Deuil: The Chicken in Half-Mourning

Volaille demi-deuil (chicken in half-mourning) is the signature dish of Lyon — created by Mère Fillioux, perfected by Mère Brazier, and now inseparable from the city's culinary identity. A Bresse chicken is studded with slices of black Périgord truffle inserted between the skin and the flesh, then gently poached in a rich chicken stock. When cooked, the dark truffle shows through the pale skin — the effect is black-and-white, like mourning dress. Hence "demi-deuil" — half-mourning.

A whole Bresse chicken (AOP-certified, blue-legged, free-range for 4+ months) is carefully loosened at the breast and thigh — the skin is separated from the flesh without tearing, creating pockets. Thin slices of fresh black truffle are slid into these pockets, distributed evenly. The chicken is trussed, placed in a large pot of rich chicken stock (made from carcasses, aromatics, and ideally calf's foot for gelatin), and poached at a gentle simmer for approximately 1.5 hours depending on size. The chicken is removed, carved, and served with the reduced poaching liquid, sometimes enriched with cream.

• Hainanese chicken rice (poached chicken, supremely simple, the stock is the treasure), Japanese mizutaki (chicken poached in kombu dashi — same principle of gentle heat preserving the bird), Chinese w