The Provençal roast chicken—rubbed inside and out with herbes de Provence, garlic, and olive oil, then roasted on a bed of summer vegetables—represents the region’s culinary philosophy distilled to its essence: superb ingredients, elemental technique, maximum flavour. The preparation begins with a free-range chicken (poulet fermier, 1.5-1.8kg) that is seasoned 24 hours in advance—the interior cavity is rubbed with crushed garlic, coarse sea salt, and a tablespoon of herbes de Provence (thyme, rosemary, savory, marjoram, oregano), then a halved lemon and several thyme sprigs are tucked inside. The exterior is rubbed with olive oil and more herbes de Provence, then the bird rests uncovered in the refrigerator overnight, which dries the skin for optimal crisping. The roasting technique is distinctly Provençal: instead of the Norman butter-basted approach, the chicken roasts on a trivet of thick-sliced courgettes, aubergines, tomatoes, and red peppers in a shallow earthenware dish (plat en terre), starting at 220°C for 20 minutes to crisp the skin, then dropping to 180°C for 50-60 minutes until the thigh joint reaches 74°C. The vegetables below catch the rendered fat and juices, roasting and caramelising in the chicken’s drippings to become the accompaniment. No separate sauce is made—the pan is deglazed with a splash of white wine and the juices poured directly over the carved bird and vegetables. The Provençal touch that elevates this above any other roast chicken is the paste of pounded garlic, anchovy, and olive oil pushed under the breast skin before roasting—it melts into the flesh, seasoning from within with that unmistakable marriage of garlic, salt, and Mediterranean richness.
Season the bird 24 hours ahead and air-dry in the refrigerator for crisp skin. Push garlic-anchovy paste under the breast skin for internal seasoning. Roast on a vegetable trivet that becomes the accompaniment. Start at high heat (220°C) for skin crisping, reduce to 180°C to cook through gently. Deglaze the pan with white wine for an instant, unthickened jus.
Make the sous-peau (under-skin) paste by pounding 4 garlic cloves, 4 anchovy fillets, a tablespoon of herbes de Provence, and 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a mortar—the anchovy melts during roasting and provides umami without any fishy taste. Toss the vegetable trivet with a splash of pastis before adding the chicken—the anise note caramelises beautifully under the rendered fat. When the chicken is resting, return the vegetables to a hot oven for 5 more minutes to crisp their edges—the contrast of charred vegetables and tender, juicy chicken is extraordinary.
Not drying the skin, which produces a flabby, steamed exterior. Using dried herbs exclusively when fresh thyme and rosemary are available and far more aromatic. Roasting on a metal rack instead of a vegetable bed, missing the opportunity for flavour-saturated accompaniments. Basting with butter (Norman technique) instead of allowing the olive oil and natural fat to do the work. Carving immediately without resting, losing the juices that should redistribute through the meat.
Chez Panisse Café Cookbook — Alice Waters